In London’s Mayfair, ARAGAWA LONDON adds a touch of mystery to the city’s dining scene, bringing with it the legacy of Japan’s premier steakhouse. In this second volume, I explore the secrets behind this restaurant’s grilling techniques and the skills of Kazuo Imayoshi, who has spent over 40 years mastering the art of cooking Tajima beef, and delve into his dedicated life journey.
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Chapter 2: The Steak Master
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At ARAGAWA London, renowned as a pinnacle of steakhouse excellence, the scene of grilling the finest Tajima beef is nothing but serene.
There are no towering flames or heavy iron grills with chunks of meat. There is no sizzling of dripping fat, nor the crackling sound of the heat source.
What exists here is a kind of silence and the presence of Shokunin who focuses their senses on the sound.
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Aragawa specialises in rare Tajima beef. Even among purebred Tajima cattle, these are exceptional ones that are carefully raised over a long period. In Japan, they are regarded as a rare treasure among top Wagyu, often referred to as “elusive” cattle. (You can explore more about Tajima beef and insights in my previous article . )
To prepare Aragawa’s rare meat, one must possess exceptional culinary skill and precision, and here, at the London branch, this responsibility falls on a steak master, Kazuo Imayoshi. A Shokunin who has been in charge of meat preparation at Aragawa Tokyo for over 40 years, Imayoshi san relocated to the UK upon the opening of the London branch.
He prepares the top-grade Tajima beef using a “Rogama” kiln.
Rogama is a cooking oven made of special fire bricks and stones, with usually a large dome-shaped or semi-cylindrical structure. Inside, there are shelves for placing the meat. Ingredients skewered on metal rods are positioned there so that the meat is cooked solely by heat without direct contact. The metal skewers used at Aragawa are specially processed piano wires.
Rogama is not an open fire; it has doors or shutters at the front, creating a sealed structure. During cooking, the doors are closed to prevent heat from escaping, maintaining a high internal temperature, and allowing efficient heat convection for uniform cooking.
The heat source is Sumi, charcoal.
The internal temperature rises to 600 degrees Celsius. Cooking at high temperatures for short periods minimises moisture loss from the meat, ensuring it remains juicy and tender.
When asked for more details about the Rogama, the owner Kotaro Ogawa san smiles and says “it’s a trade secret”.
However, it’s easy to understand that even if one were to exactly replicate the structure, they could never achieve the same quality of meat preparation.
There are two reasons for this.
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Binchotan of Supreme Craft
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The first element is charcoal. Specifically, Aragawa uses unparalleled Binchotan.
Binchotan is a high-quality charcoal widely used in Japan, primarily made from hardwoods such as Ubame oak. Binchotan is notably solid and dense, capable of maintaining high temperatures during combustion, and produces less smoke and odour compared to other charcoals. This makes it highly prized as fuel for cooking and tea ceremonies. Compared to regular charcoal, Binchotan has a high burning temperature of about 800 to 1000 degrees Celsius and a very long burning time. Additionally, its beautiful silver sheen makes it known worldwide as a luxury charcoal.
However, the Binchotan used at Aragawa is of the highest grade, sourced from Kishu, located in Wakayama Prefecture in the Kansai region of Japan. The name Kishu is immediately recognised by anyone familiar with Binchotan. The grade used is called “Jokomaru” which is the size most sought after by top chefs and experts.
“Good charcoal doesn’t crack and maintains heat well. Poor quality ones can extinguish when fat from the meat drips onto them”
explains Imayoshi san.
He judges the quality by its size and hardness but adds,
“I always specify the same charcoal artisan when purchasing.”
Creating such Binchotan requires craftsmanship. I think it is akin to pottery making, requiring artisans who understand how to select wood and manage fire and temperature.
I have seen several charcoals touted as “the finest in Japan” but what I witnessed at Aragawa was entirely different. The form is slender, hard and tightly compacted. Its high density is immediately apparent. When struck together like clappers, they produce a clear, high-pitched sound, echoing like the resonant, bel canto chime of lightly touched crystals.
“The strength is comparable to metal”
explained Stephan, the manager of the restaurant.
The surface and cut edges glisten with a silverish sheen so remarkable it makes one question if it is truly charcoal.
Imayoshi san notes that it produces almost no smoke and does not crackle, preventing stray flames from damaging the surface of the meat.
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The Precision of the Shokunin
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Another reason is, naturally, the grilling technique—the skill of the Shokunin.
Imayoshi san graciously demonstrated the grilling process.
The surface of the meat had a Maillard reaction more pronounced than I had expected, with a slight bubbling appearance. Yet, the reaction itself was very delicate, making me realise how rare it is to witness meat grilling in such a refined state.
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The grilling time, of course, varies depending on the size and condition of the meat, but it generally takes about 20 minutes in the Rogama kiln.
Once the door is closed, nothing inside is visible. Ideally, Imayoshi san says, he prefers to open the door only once or twice.
Thus, the only way to ascertain the state of the meat is by listening to the sound it makes.
He discerns the slight differences in the sounds of the meat’s surface reacting to the heat and uses those nuances to judge the doneness.
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“When I’m grilling, I prefer not to engage in conversation”
he stated.
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In retrospect, I realised that my numerous questions from the right next to him were, indeed, the height of thoughtlessness.
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The seasoning used is simply salt and pepper.
“Salt is crucial”
the owner Ogawa san explained.
The same grilling salt used in Japan is employed here in the UK. It is milled finely at the restaurant and sprinkled from a height to ensure an even coating.
“Moisture is the enemy of the salt”
he added.
Incidentally, many diners inquire about steak sauce, but at Aragawa, only salt and pepper are used.
“We would like our diners to discover and experience our Tajima meat’s aroma and delicate flavours, as well as its creamy texture”
emphasises Ogawa san.
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The Rogama kiln might have been constructed just as it is in Tokyo, but I wondered if something was different in the UK…
“The environment here is entirely different and poses many challenges”
said Imayoshi san succinctly.
Ogawa san explains that the difficulty with the kiln lies entirely in managing the “airflow”.
“This Rogama operates solely on the heat of the charcoal, without any electricity or gas. Therefore, everything, from the temperature to the grilling of the meat, is controlled by how the air flows”
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To ARAGAWA
Imayoshi san, originally from Kyushu, a region located in the southwestern part of Japan, has enjoyed cooking since he was a young child. Although he attended a technical high school, he did not pursue a career in industrial trades. Instead, he started working at a local Yoshoku (Western-style Japanese cuisine) restaurant in Tokyo, a city he had always admired. He worked at this restaurant for about five years, during which time he was in charge of preparing salads exclusively, rather than more intricate dishes. However, he never felt dissatisfied with this role.
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One day, the restaurant’s manager said to him,
“If you want to continue in the culinary field, you shouldn’t stay here. You must go to a more renowned establishment”
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The manager then took him to dine at “Balzac”, a casual offshoot of the well-known restaurant Aragawa, whose name Imayoshi san had heard of but had never experienced their cuisine. He was profoundly amazed by the authentic, meticulously prepared dishes of Balzac he tasted for the first time.
As if drawn by fate, he then met the founder and owner-chef of Aragawa Tokyo and, guided by destiny, began working at the main restaurant. Imayoshi san was 23 years old at the time.
For two years, he worked as an assistant to the owner-chef. In his third year, he said, “It’s about time you tried grilling”, but Imayoshi san felt it was too soon for him and declined, saying he was not yet ready to take on such a responsibility.
Despite the owner-chef’s persistent encouragement, Imayoshi san requested to spend six months training at the casual restaurant first. The owner-chef chuckled and said,
“You’re an unusual fellow. Most guys jump at the chance to grill right away”
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Always a Beginner
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“Sprinkle the salt this way. Arrange the charcoal like this”
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The former owner’s instructions on grilling were that simple.
However, even when following those instructions, the meat grilled by the owner appeared plump and delicious, while the meat grilled by Imayoshi san, despite his best efforts, he thought it seemed “meager”.
The taste, of course, he felt it was also different.
“I had no idea what to do to achieve the same results as the owner”
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From its inception, Aragawa has been an exclusive restaurant frequented by distinguished clientele. This indicates that the diners themselves exhibit a refined, keen sense of culinary excellence.
As seen in the London branch, an open kitchen allows anyone to see who is standing in front of the kiln and who is grilling the meat.
When Imayoshi san first stood in front of the kiln at the age of 25, he faced severe scrutiny from regular customers.
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“Who are you? If you serve something strange, I’ll send it back”
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Such comments weren’t uncommon.
One customer even brought a plate back to the grill station, cut a piece of meat right in front of Imayoshi san, and said, “Taste it”.
Imayoshi san tasted the piece and thought it wasn’t good.
However, the customer did not explain what was wrong or how to improve it.
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“You’ve got to figure it out yourself”
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Saying so, he returned to his seat and kept dining.
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In Japan, it has long been customary for chefs and diners to face each other across a counter, as seen in Kappo or sushi restaurants.
It is often said that loyal customers nurture the chefs. Regular patrons give constructive criticism with a sense of affection. There was a tradition where all the regulars would collectively help train new chefs.
This guidance sometimes extends beyond the flavours of the food to aspects of beauty and philosophy. Many of the great diners of yesteryear were leading cultural figures who frequented their favourite restaurants, patiently seeking and conveying insights beyond just taste to the chefs.
When Imayoshi san had been standing in front of the kiln for seven or eight years, he modestly prefaced his statement with, “I might be presumptuous,” and then said, “but I finally feel I’ve started to gain a bit of confidence”
From that time until now, over 40 and several years have passed.
During that period, he received various opinions from different people, but Imayoshi san always returned to the “beginner’s spirit” that the former owner emphasised.
“Without swaying, I just go back to what I was initially taught: salt and pepper, charcoal. That’s all.”
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Houkou
A young man who left Kyushu and stepped into Aragawa at the age of 23 now stands grilling meat in the land of England, far from home, 40 years later.
“At my age, relocating to a different country is very challenging. I don’t even speak English”
remarks Imayoshi san, yet his expression remains invariably gentle.
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“There are many hardships, but even so, I see this current period as ‘Houkou’ and strive to do my best”
“Houkou,” which can be translated as fealty or service, is a traditional Japanese spirit that historically means to serve one’s master with loyalty. It values a sense of responsibility and trust.
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The Radiance of a Lifetime
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If you had devoted yourself to a single pursuit for 40 years.
And then, far from your homeland, in a foreign land,
Stepping forward with the passionate dreams you held in your heart in your twenties,
If that dazzling day were to be vividly recalled in your mind.
If the myriad events of your life were to flow through your mind and heart.
And if, in that moment, tears were to well up unexpectedly.
I imagine that person has certainly walked an irreplaceable path in life.
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Imayoshi san stands before me, his eyes softly smiling, illuminated by the bright fluorescent lights of the grill station.
I gaze intently into his eyes, and in those few seconds, I see a glow – the radiant glow of his life – slowly welling up, leaving a trail of shimmering light along his lower eyelid.
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【ARAGAWA】
38 Clarges Street
London W1J 7EN
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