Exclusive Insights into Pinnacle Wagyu Steakhouse: The Best of Tajima Beef Experience
・
If you’ve ever heard whispers about ARAGAWA nestled in the heart of London, you are likely a connoisseur of Japanese beef. This enigmatic steakhouse might conjure one of two images in your mind: a venue synonymous with steaks that price overwhelms you, or a sanctuary where the zenith of wagyu beef can be savoured.
Originating in Tokyo in 1967 and named after the novel “Le Peau de chagrin” by the famed French gourmet and literary giant Honoré de Balzac, Aragawa has ascended to become a legendary name among Japanese steakhouses, celebrated for its supreme quality. In a quiet alley in Mayfair, London, this venerable institution laid its roots last year, creating a refined echo of its Tokyo predecessor. The owner, whom I have known for some years now, shared with me their unwavering commitment to offering only the finest, a true testament to authenticity, eschewing the trappings of overt commercialisation.
This sanctuary of Wagyu, veiled in an aura of exclusivity, remains a secret savoured by only a select circle of gourmets. As I unfold the layers of this culinary gem, let us delve into the sublime world of Japanese Wagyu beef, exploring the craftsmanship and dedication that define Aragawa’s legacy.
There are a few key terms to understand this establishment and the pinnacle of Japanese Wagyu. I will now explore these in depth.
・
・
Chapter 1: The Pinnacle of Wagyu, The TAJIMA
・
First, let’s begin with what matters most: meat.
Wagyu, popular globally nowadays, is immediately recognised as a special kind of beef on menus, and its price reflects that, a fact well known to many. However, “Wagyu” translates to “Japanese cattle”, originating from native Japanese breeds through crossbreeding. To be recognised as Wagyu, it must be one of four breeds: Japanese Black, Japanese Brown, Japanese Shorthorn and Japanese Polled, and hybrids between them. Japanese Black makes up over 90% of all.
From the 1970s to the 1990s, Wagyu genetic resources were brought to countries like Australia and the USA, leading to “Wagyu” labelled meat from outside Japan. Yet, this beef differs in rearing environment and quality from Wagyu raised in Japan.
The word “Wagyu” on a menu outside of Japan does not distinguish whether it was raised in Japan or not. If you are specifically seeking out Japanese Wagyu, you need to search for beef that includes the name of a Japanese region in its labelling. This designation signifies that the beef adheres to the rigorous local standards and practices unique to that region, ensuring its authenticity and quality. In Japan, selling beef as “Wagyu” requires domestic rearing and breed standards fulfilment, plus a 10-digit individual identification number for traceability.
However, the lineage of the highest quality Japanese Black Wagyu can be traced to a single breed of cattle of Hyogo Prefecture: the Tajima.
Since the 16th century, the superb meat quality of Tajima cattle has been recognised, and considerable efforts have been made to enhance its flavour. However, in the late Meiji era (1868-1912), excessive crossbreeding with foreign breeds was conducted to increase meat yield, significantly altering the quality. By the time this fact was realised, the situation was on the brink of extinction. Miraculously, only four cattle, having escaped crossbreeding and thus remaining purebred, were found in a small village in Hyogo Prefecture. These were the Tajima cattle, heralded for centuries as the pinnacle of Japanese beef.
By carefully protecting and faithfully continuing the lineage of these four cattle, the Tajima breed was revived. Today, most of the high-quality Kuroge Wagyu (Japanese Black) beef is said to originate from this Tajima strain. Thanks to years of accumulated knowledge, special environmental and breeding methods, and the rare characteristics of this breed, Tajima cattle possess a profound flavour and high meat aroma, and most notably, the melting point of their marbling is about 10°C lower than that of other breeds. This results in an exceptionally clean melt in the mouth when eaten.
＊
If one seeks the best of Japanese beef, it becomes crucial to start with cattle possessing the Tajima descent. Among these, those maintaining a direct line of pure blood are exceedingly rare. If one desires the highest quality Wagyu, the importance of starting with pedigree Tajima cattle cannot be overstated. Furthermore, if one aims to explore the even more ultimate in taste and reach the summit of flavour, the most important factor becomes who the producer is. Just as with natural fishing or hunting, who captures the creature significantly affects its quality. Which season, which location, how the prey is found and dispatched, and the care and sentiment behind the processing—all these are entrusted to human hands.
Especially in farms or ranches, where human involvement is even greater, the individual’s role becomes profoundly influential. Within such a context, the level of trust a buyer has in the breeder takes on even greater significance. How much special care they provide, whether the cattle are female or castrated, whether they are experienced mothers or not, the months of breeding, the feed itself and the breeding environment—these crucial factors are carefully considered, and it is an adherence that goes beyond these that ultimately results in the birth of cattle with exceptionally rare and superior meat quality. Here, the connections between people play a significant role.
Within this sphere, the concept that one can instantly acquire cattle simply because they wish to is nonexistent.
Aragawa possesses the pinnacle of Wagyu beef, a grade so rare even in Japan that it is so-called “mythical”
・
＊
・
One such farmer is the Okazaki Bokujo, exclusively producing pureblood Tajima female cattle. Located in Shiga’s Omi region, Okazaki Bokujo is the farm sought after by every high-end meat purveyor in Japan. Kotaro Ogawa san, the owner of Aragawa, has built over a decade of partnership with the current sixth-generation owner of the ranch, Okazaki san himself, experimenting and co-developing raising strategies with foresight into flavour creation. Thus, they produce a uniquely exquisite taste of beef exclusively for Aragawa.
・
“Particularly, what I’ve dedicated my heart to is the length of naturing”
・says the owner Ogawa san.
・
“At Aragawa, we use beef that has been raised for from 38 months and sometimes up to 60 months. We began to seriously attempt long-term raising with Okazaki san about 7 or 8 years ago. Naturally, it’s costly, and even with such long-term rearing, it’s not guaranteed to always result in superior cattle. Yet, we continue to commit ourselves to long-term naturing because the flavour it yields is something short-term raising can never achieve”
・
In recent years, the world of Japanese beef has seen a growing emphasis on long-term farming, a trend that Aragawa has pioneered.
・
“The meat quality of cattle raised for a long period has an even lower melting point of fat. It significantly improves the mouthfeel texture, and the sensation of the fat melting is entirely different when eaten. Beyond just the marbling, it’s the texture—a marging of fat and lean meat. There’s a deeply profound umami that spreads across both marbling and lean meat”
・
＊
・
True to his words, the beef at Aragawa is distinct from the typically “impactful” fatty Wagyu, offering an unprecedented new frontier even for those accustomed to high-quality Japanese meat. Aragawa’s beef possesses an especially fragrant aroma unique to Wagyu, a fine and elegant texture, soft velvet-like and creamy that melts in your mouth so smoothly, delicate fat that nothing greasy but exquisitely clean, a depth and lingering aftertaste of umami and a complexly layered flavour.
When experiencing the finest Japanese food for the first time, people would quietly marvel at the supremely refined and elegant flavours, yet are struck by the deep, lasting aftertaste that has considerable depth. Alternatively, one might be taken aback by their delicacy and lightness.
If one has become accustomed to more assertive flavours, that is, tastes that emphasise impact above all else, the contrast will be stark.
If you are trying to picture this, I’d like you to take the example of wine for a moment.
Please imagine a glass of the finest Burgundy—subtle, refined and aged to perfection by a venerated producer. This wine does not shout but whispers its complexities. In the same vein, approach the exquisite Tajima; savour its quiet elegance as you would the most sublime of wines.
It will reveal new aspects of the Wagyu beef experience.
・
・
In addition to Okazaki Bokujo, at Aragawa, the owner sources exclusively from the finest of farmers with whom he has built relationships over many years. The selection includes purebred Tajima cattle that have never calved, meat from long-term raising, and cuts such as premium sirloin, fillet, rump, rump heart and top round.
Steaks, normally prepared in 400g block for two people, are served at the table beautifully plated with an imposing height, each portion weighing 200g and offering an amount of satisfying portion.
Naturally, cooking such exquisite meat requires one of Japan’s finest grill masters, a true artisan, Shokunin.
The reason I now wish to dine at Aragawa London is that here in London, there is Steak Master Kazuo Imayoshi san, the Shokunin who has handled and cooked meat at Aragawa Tokyo for over 40 years. He moved to the UK specifically for this London venue.
Shokunin signifies a person who has attained the zenith of skill in their specialized domain.
I will tell you about Shokunin Imayoshi san and his exceptional grilling mastery in the next chapter.
・
【ARAGAWA】
38 Clarges Street
London W1J 7EN
