naoko

May 6, 2022 FOOD & DRINK, RESTAURANTS, TRAVEL

TAN – Kyoto Breakfast to Purify Your Body and Soul

A traditional Japanese breakfast that makes you feel as if your mind and body have been cleansed and filled with gratitude.

Breakfast at TAN, along the Shirakawa River in Sanjo, Kyoto.

Even if you have indulged in Kyoto’s gastronomy to its fullest the night before, you still will feel light in the morning and have a healthy appetite.

This is perhaps the best thing about Japanese cuisine, which is easier to understand than thinking in your head.

TAN is located just a short distance from the bustling city centre of Kyoto.
It has a friendly welcoming atmosphere, yet still gives a dignified impression.

This makes sense when you hear that the restaurant is produced by KODAIJI WAKUDEN – one of the Kyoto’s most famous Kaiseki restaurants.
The interior was done by Nakamura Sotoji Komuten, who is renowned as Japan’s best Sukiya-style architecture contractor, and the calligraphy on the restaurant’s signboard is by Ichikawa Ennosuke IV, a leading Kabuki actor.
The restaurant shares the same passion as WAKUDEN in its attention to ingredients and care for the diners.

Breakfast is served in two timed sessions, at 8am and 9am.
When I arrived on time, feeling refreshed by the sound of the cool streams of the Shirakawa and the bright green of the willow trees.

I was shown to a seat at one of the large tables.

Hot Hoji tea was served shortly afterwards, and then dishes were served in turn.

The Shiraae (tofu paste with sesame) ’s aroma seems to dance in the air.
Vegetables that cooked to remain the firmness, with a flavour that rises as you bite them.
The Moromi has good deep depth.
Trout was grilled delicately, with a hint of elegant Ryotei style.
Lightly flavoured Tsukemono (pickles) dishes.
Egg and miso soup.

All were deliciously discreet in Kyoto way, and traditional Japanese breakfast with a modern lightness that celebrated on top of that.

However, what overwhelmingly knocked me out was the freshly cooked white rice.

Just in the middle of the meal, the rice finished cooked, the lid of the Donabe pot is opened and the steam is seen rising from the shiny black clay vessel up close.
At this point, I thought, “Oh, right. That’s why the starting times are fixed”.

The glossy rice in the bowl is smooth to the touch, almost like bone china.
There is no sticky texture at all, but when you put it in your mouth and bite into it, a sweet, rich, full-bodied flavours fill your mouth.
The beautiful aroma lingers on gradually.
I had no effort to pick out every last grain with chopsticks as the rice was sitting neat and steady.

The rice is said to come from their own farm in Ichinono, Kumihama Cho, Kyotango – the north of Kyoto.

The rice is grown without pesticides or chemical fertilisers, and “starts with soil preparation, seedling making, rice planting, weeding by hand, mowing, harvesting, threshing, hulling and drying, inspection and milling. The entire process is carried out by our own staff” explained in their web page.

These detail is not for the sake of the listing notes, but is connected to the taste and transferred to their true taste.

I would even like to visit again just for this bowl of rice.

The morning time that satisfy both mind and body is carried over to after meal.
You can sit upstairs and enjoy a self-service morning coffee.

From the moment you walk up the stairs, you have an excitement that there’s something wonderful up there.
And then, as if to exceed those expectations, a sight jumps into your eyes.

You look out of the painting like a view from the open window, a sound of the gentle stream of the river surrounds you.

Simply I feel grateful to start a day with a beautiful melody.

Tan
TEL. +81 75 533 7744
Sanjo-dori and Shirakawabashi Sagaru, Higashigawa,106-13 Gokencho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto

Breakfast Two seatings at 8 am / 9 am

Lunch noon -3 pm

Dinner 5 pm-9 pm

http://tan.kyoto.jp
www.wakuden.jp/ryotei/tan

March 10, 2022 CHEFS, FOOD & DRINK, RESTAURANTS, 日本語記事

背トロ

Endo at The Rotunda 　ロンドン｜　2022年2月

鮨職人　遠藤和年

鮪漁師　田中一

ロンドンきっての鮨レストラン Endoの鮨職人、遠藤和年さんには、いつも驚かされる。

少しの間を置いて、お店を訪ねると、いつも、新たな驚きがあるからだ。

常に進化を続けること、それが、食べ手に伝わるレベルでの進化を遂げることは、本当に難しいし、孤独な戦いだと思う。

先日の食事で私が最も感激したのは、彼が握ってくれた、背トロだった。
背トロは、通常のトロが取れる腹の部分ではなく、背ビレの下にあたる部分の身で、程よい脂、赤身の部位でもある。

初め、何も告げずに、差し出された中トロ。
口に含むと、最初は、冬の濃厚な脂が口内を独占した後、「これは何！？」という風味がじんわり立ち昇ってきた。

最初、この味わいをしばらく言葉にできなかった。

複雑で、いくつもの層と深みがあり、強さもあり、その上で、ただ単にきれいなだけじゃない、”何か” があった。
美味しい、旨味たっぷり、そういう ”美味” では、ないのだ。
なにかもっと、実体のある現実、の味がした。

「これ、背トロといって、背の部分なんですよ。今日、是非食べていただきたくて、取っておきました」

遠藤さんが言う。

次の握りやお料理へと食事は進んで行くが、それでも、まだ、私の中で、この何か、の味が、何であるか、どうしても言葉にしたくて、考え込んでいた。
そして、ようやくして、これだ、という言葉に辿り着いた。

「生命 – いのち、の味」

そう、大自然を生きたもの、野生のものだけが持ちえる味。

そう気づいた瞬間、突如として、目の前に、大海を豪快に泳ぐ、この雄大な生命の姿が脳裏に浮かんだ気がした。

まるで、この巨大な生命が泳ぐ、海洋の深く、冷たい水の温度が感じられるかのようだった。

水の塊を、滑らかな肌身が、身体全体で重い水をシャープに切って行くような、そんな感覚ですら湧き上がる。

そうして育った生命が生んだ、稀有な風味が、今一度、遠藤さんのカウンターでその夜、蘇った。

＊

この鮪を揚げたのは、田中一さん。ポルトガル在住の鮪漁の漁師さんだ。
全身全霊を、鮪に捧げ、鮪漁に取り組まれている。

Endoでの食事から数日経ったある日、彼に、背トロについて伺いたい、とメッセージ送り、その返信を見て、愕然とした。

そこには、こう、書かれてあった。

「背は、腹に比べ脂が少ないです。
その分、魚が持っている特徴が大きく表れます。
逆に言えば、脂は特徴が出にくい部位です。
魚の特徴とは、今までどの様に生きてきたかです。
言ってみれば、マグロの生き方が表れるのが背です。
マグロの住んでいる、海の香り。
マグロが食べている、食べ物の香り。
マグロの泳いだ距離、筋肉の締まり。
コレらが、脂が少ない部分に表れます。
脂が少ない分、人間がより繊細にそれを感じ取るのだと思います。
全神経を使って、それを味わうのだと思います」

この夜のような、味わいをくださった、遠藤さんと田中さん、Endoに関わる全ての皆さんに感謝したい。

＊＊＊

Endo at The Rotundaの写真やビデオを、ぜひ、インスタグラムでもご覧ください。

遠藤シェフ、チームの皆さんの、熱い想いと挑戦の物語、投稿させていただいております。

the.japan.set_naoko

Endo at The Rotunda

www.endoatrotunda.com

田中一さん

tanakahajime.net

www.instagram.com/tanakahajime.bftlabo

下の写真は、スペイン産養殖鮪。ヨーロッパではこちらも最上級とされている。それぞれの鮪の味わいを見極めて、遠藤さんは、それらを極上の握りに仕立てる。

March 10, 2022 CHEFS, FOOD & DRINK, RESTAURANTS

SE TORO 背トロ – The Connoisseur’s Toro

Endo at The Rotunda, London ｜　February 2022

Sushi Chef KAZUTOSHI ENDO

Tuna Fisherman HAJIME TANAKA

Chef Endo san never stop challenging and every time I dine here, there are new surprises and discoveries. This time, what stroke me the most was his SETORO – Chutoro just under the dorsal fin. And most importantly, this tuna was from Hajime Tanaka san – a Japanese tuna fisherman based in Portugal.

Normally, toro is mostly found in the belly. But Se-Toro, as the name suggests, is the Se(back) side and has a different flavour to belly toro.

“ I chose this part for you tonight”

said Endo san.

“ This is connoisseur’s toro, and we sushi chefs love it”

The differences in taste was distinct ( at least for me ). However, at first I had no words to describe it. I really didn’t know how to express this special flavour.

It was complexed. It has layers, characters, strength and appealing, still none of the words fully describe what I was tasting.
After a while, as I was exchanging opinions with Endo san, I finally found the right word.

“Taste of things lived “

A life lived on this beautiful planet.

I then suddenly visualised an image and almost felt it.
A great large fish swimming boldly in the big ocean. It was as if I could feel the temperature of the ocean, as if I were slicing through a mass of water with my whole shiny smooth body. A precious life that could only grow in the wild was now reborn at Endo san’s sushi counter that night.

＊

A few days later, I asked Tanaka san about Setoro and and received a reply that utterly surprised me.

“The back of the fish has less fat than the belly, so the characteristics of the fish are more pronounced.
On the other hand, the fat is the part of the fish where the characteristics are less evident.
The characteristics of a fish are the way it has lived its life.
In other words, it is the back that shows how the tuna has lived.
The smell of the sea, where the tuna lives.
The scent of the food that the tuna eats.
The distance the tuna has swam, the tightness of its muscles.
All of these things can be seen in the parts with less fat.
The less fat there is, the more sensitive we are to it.
You have to use every senses in your body to taste it “

＊

Tanaka san has deep love and tremendous passions for this noble creature.
He pays respects and is thanking the fish everyday.

I thank Endo san and Tanaka san for having shown me one of the most precious and beautiful things of this earth can give.

*** PLEASE VISIT MY INSTAGRAM TO SEE MORE VIDEO OF ENDO AT THE ROTUNDA ***

the.japan.set_naoko

Endo at The Rotunda

www.endoatrotunda.com

・

Hajime Tanaka

tanakahajime.net

www.instagram.com/tanakahajime.bftlabo

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Extra photos of Tuna/Maguro: Even farmed tuna from Spain become superb Nigiri by chef Endo-san’s spreme Edomae skills.

December 14, 2021 CHEFS, RESTAURANTS

Restaurant Kei「A Point of Extremity」

Chef・ Kei Kobayashi

French ｜　Paris, FRANCE

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An incredible delicacy.

A cuisine in pursuit of a pinnacle of excellence.

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His restaurant was the only place on my mind.

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It was at the end of the summer, when the French border controls were relaxed, that I decided to go to Paris.

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Restaurant Kei

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This French gastronomy restaurant became the first Japanese chef’s restaurant in France to be awarded three stars.
It was just before the pandemic lockdown in Paris in 2020.

The chef is Kei Kobayashi.

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It is no secret that the criteria for three stars in France are much stricter than in any other country in the world, so the fact that he is the first Asian to achieve this feat is a great surprise to France.

Since its opening on 3rd March 2011, the path he has taken to reach this point is one that, by any stretch of the imagination, will never be known by anyone.

But for Chef Kobayashi, three stars, or any stars for that matter, are not the end goal, on the contrary, he says that he has finally reached the starting point.

And as I listened to him speak, I felt that his words were true.

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The energy that emanates from the chef who is now 43 years old, the sharpness of his gaze without hesitation, is the same kind of momentum that ambitious young people have, as if they are about to reach for the stars, to go further, to go higher.
It is also a kind of frustration, a kind of uncontrollable energy that overflows from inside of his body.
This force was painfully piercing me.

The more questions I ask, the sharper the edge, the more it glistens.

And yet I also can see a landscape on the other side, like a calm lake, like a deep body of water that is there without a sound.

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“ I think the staff in the kitchen think I’m severe. I tell them that failure is the same as death “

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I smile back, a little jokingly, but Chef Kobayashi looks at me straight in the eye, with even less of a smile on his face than before.

It was then that I realised that, for him, the failure is a real death sentence.

Within the first ten minutes of our first meeting, this word came out of his mouth as a matter of course.

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A few days before I met chef Kobayashi, I had visited the restaurant and dined.

The moment I walked through the door, I was welcomed by the staff as like a warm palm wrapped around me, and I took my seat at the table with nothing but a sense of comfort.

The sommelier, Shigetsugu Kitayama san, creates a flow of wines with his own unique personality.
He is frank and direct, but in fact very compassionate. As I finished my lunch, I realised that he had made it possible for me to have such an enriching time.
It is clear that he, too, has devoted his entire life to this restaurant. Day after day, he has been standing here since the time of the first star.
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When I asked for a wine pairing, I suddenly became very curious about how Kitayama san manages the somewhat frightening task of matching wine to Chef Kobayashi’s cuisine.

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“ There is nothing more difficult than this “

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There was real weight in this word.
What part of a dish that has been perfected to perfection can be matched with the taste of wine?

Because Kobayashi’s cuisine is a harmonious culmination of extreme delicacy.

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The amuse-bouche, “cucumber and miso”, was sensational.
Marinated in vinegar, the cucumber was reminiscent of Japanese pickles, but I have never come across such a marinade dish before, let alone one that is so precise. Even if you had seen such a combination of ingredients in a restaurant somewhere, Chef Kobayashi’s this tiny cucumber stands on completely another altitude. Delicate and translucent. Light and flamboyantly beautiful. It was as if the acidity in my mouth had been detected and adjusted, and there was not a thread of disruption in the balance. How is it possible for a dish like cucumber with vinegar to reach such a ground? 　From the very beginning, I was struck by the shock.

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The following dishes flowed in a perfect circle, as if to symbolise the Japanese philosophy of harmony.

Palamos shirimps with Shrenki caviar, Shiso, Granny Smith apples and Earl Grey. In this harmony, where nothing is out of place, there is only the slightest suggestion of Shiso. Its scent seems to awaken a part of you.　

The signature Vegetable Garden with Lemon Foam. Its flavour varies from spoon to spoon, with each bite bringing a different and powerful tastes, aroma and texture to my taste buds in seconds.

An exquisite Sea bass, cleverly calculated and executed in terms of how far to take the heat.

As for the Scottish Lobster, in addition to the elements mentioned above, it retains its semi-raw, moist texture and a seductive sweet aroma that emerges when heated, making it a perfect expression of the crustacean creature. A masterpiece.

The flavours and Umami of the 100-day aged Spanish Galice Beef, which I hear that the chef himself has visited the farm many times, are so prominent that you are struck by the character of the meat. You can also choose Wagyu beef, the A4 from Kagoshima, to taste not only the fat but also the taste of the red meat.

And the desserts…. Citrus Smoothie and Cotton Candy. The layers of flavours, the balance, that is the lightness of being, finalised in a crystal of a flow. Like the morning sun rising from the horizon, or a strong wind kidnapping the leaves off the trees… I found the change of flavours to be a tremendous pleasure.

Each dish is the culmination of the chef’s thoughts and his long journey; battles, struggles, hesitations, emotion, ruggedness, joy, beauty and love in one form or another.

We put it in our mouth.

And taste it with heart.

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Every ingredient you encounter at Kei, no matter how small, has a value that makes you recognise its importance, that it is part of a special life on this planet.

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The wind,
the air,
the soil,
the rays of light,
the fresh water,
the sea water,
the microorganisms,
the temperature,
the things that flow,
the things that rise,
the things that the ingredients have absorbed into themselves,

and one day, after being gathered by the fisherman or the farmer, they are brought to the kitchen and beautifully presented on the plate, and you taste the remnants of the core of the life that it has lived over the years.

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The combination of several or even dozens of such ingredients, each with its own personality, requires a meticulous preparation.
Chef Kobayashi’s creations are a complex combination of ingredients and seasonings that cannot and do not deviate by even 0.001 millimetres, yet each one has its own meaning and all are in perfect harmony. It was like a perfect symphony played at its most delicate and perilous form. It was a dish to challenge to the very limits of the edge. Walked the tightrope so thin like a thread that you never afford to miss a step…

And yet, there was no sense of tension. There is a tenderness.

I was amazed that such a dish of stillness and softness could come from such a chef, who speaks softly but with an aura of tremendous heat that emanates from his entire body, like a vibration of a fierce fire burning inside.

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On the afternoon I visited at the end of November, Chef Kobayashi had just returned from a trip to Qatar the previous day. He was there with ten of the greatest chefs in France and the world, some of whom are world icons. After spending a few days with them, Chef Kobayashi came back with a renewed sense of direction.

The title of “three-star chef” and the luxury and special treatment he receives now do not deter him from this.

The most important thing, he says, is that each and every customer who comes to the restaurant is an individual and must be respected most.

He wants to give them something that will change their life through his food and the time they spend at Restaurant Kei.

During the one hour and a half interview, the word “heart” came up several times from the chef’s mouth.

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“I want to make time for the heart “

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Chef Kei Kobayashi’s cuisine is like a mirror of our own heart. Are we able to catch, respond to and feel what he throws at us over the course of his life? We can see through it, mercilessly.
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“The battle with the customer”, he said at the beginning of the interview, seemed to me now to be a time of reaction, how we had sensed and sublimated the joys and sorrows that had unfolded in each other’s lives so far.
It is a kind of nuclear fusion.

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When a light emanates in a spectacular way, an explosion of emotion like nothing you have ever experienced rises, on the bone white porcelain.

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While I was thinking about this, an 11 year old boy who had just finished his lunch came up to the chef and said he enjoyed the food and wanted to have a picture with him.
The chef replied, gently and politely and stood up and walked to the table where the boy’s parents are looking at him smiling.
Chef Kobayashi also has an 8 year old son.
I told him that when I took my young sons to a three-star restaurant, they were very good with children, and that it would be nice to have a restaurant like that.
And then he said.

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“ Children cannot understand what I cook. That’s not what I’m looking for “

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My lazy comment about “child-friendly restaurants” was dismissed without hesitation.
And he is right, where is the need to be conscious of this for him?

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“ Children haven’t developed their sensitivity fully yet so I think they need to be a bit older for them to detect what I am expressing, hopefully“

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Still though, I’ll never forget the 11 year old’s innocent expression relaying that the child had a wonderful time, one that he will remember for the rest of his life.

Chef Kobayashi’s desire to create a time that appeals to the heart had already reached beyond the “difficult” plate to the child’s inner self.

Perhaps, it’s the human being himself who resides in this restaurant, and the all the people, young and old, men and women, who are irresistibly drawn to it, come back to look for something very special.

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In the end, the value of a restaurant is in the chef, in the soul of the person.

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Whether there is “a something” in the human being, or not.

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And, Kei Kobayashi has it.

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＊

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Written by Naoko Shimizu Jeffries

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Restaurant Kei

www.restaurant-kei.fr

5 Rue Coq Héron, 75001 Paris

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December 13, 2021 CHEFS, RESTAURANTS, 日本語記事

Restaurant Kei 　小林圭シェフ「極限の一点」

フランス料理・パリ

すざましいまでの繊細さ、極限の一点を追い求める、料理。
胸をえぐられるように、感情の昂る、皿の上の激動、静けさ。

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夏が終わり、フランスの国境も解放されて、私がパリへ行くと決めた時、彼の店だけが、まず、頭にあった。

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Restaurant Kei 　　レストラン　ケイ

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パンデミックに突入する直前、2020年フランス・パリで、日本人で初めて三つ星を獲得したフレンチ・ガストロノミーレストラン。
率いるのは、小林圭シェフ。

フランスにおける三つ星の基準が、世界のどの都市より格段に厳しい事は誰もが承知の通りであり、初のアジア人として彼が成し得た偉業は、フランスにとっても大きな衝撃であった。

日本人では未だかつて、誰もたどり着いたことのなかった境地。2011年3月3日のオープン以来、ここまでへの道は、誰がどのように想像しようとも、決して彼以外の者には、知り得ることのないものだろう。

しかし、小林シェフにとって、三つ星は、あるいは、星というものは、最終目的でも何でもなく、逆に、今ここでようやく、スタート地点に立てたのだと言う。

そして、お話を伺いながら、その言葉が真実なのだと、肌身で実感した。

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小林シェフからほとばしり出るエネルギー、迷うことなく見据えてくる鋭い眼光。それは、今から星を狙うかのような若手が持つ、もっと先へ、もっと上へ、という勢いと同類の物だ。

自分でももてあそぶ程に身体の内部から、どのようにしても溢れ出してくる抑えることのできない熱が、ある種のもどかしさが、向かい側に座られている、ほんの数十センチ先から、痛いぐらいにこちらに突き刺さってくる。

いくつかの質問をすればする程、研ぎ澄まされたエッジの鋭さが、ギラギラと輝いて、それでいて、静謐な湖のような、深い水の塊が音もなくそこにあるかのような、そんな、風景をも向こう側に見させてくれる。

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「キッチンのスタッフには、厳しいと思われていると思いますよ。失敗することは、死を意味することと同じだ、って、彼らに言うからです」

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その言葉を聞いて、私が少し冗談交じりに笑い返した時、小林シェフは、それまで以上に、笑みのかけらもない顔をして、真っ直ぐな目でこちらを見た。

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比喩でもなんでもなく、彼にとっては、自分の失敗が本当の死を意味しているのだと、その時気づいた。

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初対面の、最初の10分で、この言葉が当たり前のように彼の口から出た。

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シェフに会う数日前に、私はレストランへ訪れて食事をしていた。

ドアを抜ければすぐ、温かい掌に包まれるようなスタッフの歓迎を受け、心地良さだけを感じながら、テーブル席へ着く。

ソムリエの北山重次さんが、独自の個性でワインの流れをつくってくれる。
率直な物言いで、一見、距離があるようでいて、実はとても情に厚い方。ランチを食べ終えた時、彼のおかげで、すこぶる極上の時間を過ごすことができたのだと、心から感じた。

彼も同じく、ご自分の全人生をかけてこの店に立たれていることが窺える。一つ星の時から、ずっと、小林シェフと伴走されてきた。

ワインのペアリングをお願いし、ふと、小林シェフの料理にワインを合わせるという、ある種、恐ろしい作業をどのようにしてされるのか、非常に興味が湧いてきた。

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「これほど難しいことはありませんよ」

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その言葉には、真の重みがある。
完璧に完璧を求めて、それを突き詰めた料理の一体どの部分に、ワインの味わいを添えていくのか。。。

なぜなら、小林シェフの料理は、極限まで追い求めた繊細な一点を頂点とする、調和の集合体だからだ。

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アミューズで出された”cucumber and miso” に、まず、衝撃を受けた。
酢でマリネされた胡瓜は、どこか日本のお漬物をも彷彿させる仕立てながら、しかし、これ程までに突き詰められた酢漬けはおろか、酢のマリネには、これまで一度たりとも出会ったことはない。仮に、このような素材の組み合わせの一品を、どこかのレストランで見かけた事があったとしても、小林シェフのこのほんの小さな胡瓜は、全く別の次元に存在していた。
透き通るかのような繊細さ、軽やかで華やかな美しさ。まるで、私の口の中の酸度まで見抜かれて調合されたかのような、一糸の乱れもない、鮮烈なバランスだった。いかにして、お酢の胡瓜というひと品がこのような境地にまで達する事ができるのか…。衝撃に、序盤から打ちのめされる。

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続く皿々は、正円を描くかのように、流れて行った。

Palamos海老にShrenkiキャビアを合わせた一品。紫蘇、グラニースミス林檎、アールグレーの風味が奏でる、どこにも尖ったものがない、完全なる調和のその中で、唯一、紫蘇がほんの少し主張している。その香りは、人間のある部分を覚醒させるかのよう…。

シグニチャーでもあるレモンの泡を纏った野菜の庭園は、ひとスプーン毎に風味が違っており、その一口であっても、秒差で力強い風味が代わる代わる立ち昇る。

熱をどこまで入れるか、ということが、巧みに計算され、実行された非常に印象的なスズキ。

スコットランドのオマール海老については、さらにこの、熱の絶妙な判断に加えて、トロリとした食感と、香りを浮き上がらせる身の質感までをも保持し、甲殻類という生物の表現の、一つの完成形かと納得させられる逸品。

シェフ自ら何度も牧場へ訪ねていると聞く、100日熟成のスペインGaliceの牛の旨味と香りは、あまりにも突出していて、肉の個性に打ちのめされるかのよう。

和牛の選択もでき、鹿児島のA4を、脂だけではなく肉の旨味も同時に味わう趣向にされている。

そして、デセール。柑橘のスムージーと綿菓子の一皿。これぞフランス、と高らかに声にしたくなる、味わいのレイヤーと調和と溌剌とした軽やかさが、食事の流れの中で、見事に結晶していく。まさに、朝日が水平線から立ち昇るような、あるいは、強い風が木の葉を拐っていく時のような、味わいの移り変わりが、私には、途方もない喜びと感じた。

シェフがこれまで問い続けてきた想いと、そこへ至るまでの長い道のり、戦い、葛藤、迷い、喜び、感動、荒々しさ、美しさ、愛…..それぞれが、集約されて、そこにあった。

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それらを口に入れ、

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そして、心で味わう。

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Keiで出会う素材は、どんな小さな要素をとっても、すべてがこの地球上の特別な生命であるという、”大切なもの” と感じさせてくれ、その価値が見えてくる。

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素材が生息していたこの地球上の、どこかの土地や海にある、

風、

大気、

土、

光線、

水、

海水、

微生物、

温度、

流れていくもの、

湧き上がるもの、

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それを素材が自分の中に取り込んで、ある日、漁師さんや、農家さんがつみ取った後、キッチンに運ばれ、お皿の上に美しく盛られた中から、その素材が過ごしてきた日々、年月の中で宿った生命の、その核の名残を味わう。

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そのような、一つ一つの、個性の違う素材を数種も、時には数十種も組み合わせる時、気の遠くなるような綿密なつくりが要求される。
小林シェフが紡ぎ出す料理には、０.００１ミリものずれも許されない、許していない、いくつもの素材や調味料が複雑に組み合わさっているのに、それぞれに全て意味があり、全てが完璧に調和している。

完全なるシンフォニーの音楽が、最も美しい状態で奏でられた時の、限りない、繊細で、危うくて、ギリギリの極限に挑戦して、あまりにも細い糸のような綱渡りを踏み外す事なく渡り切っている、そのような、料理だった。

それでも、緊張感に苛まれることはない。どこまでも透き通った、霧の中に差しこむ、柔らかい朝光のような、そんな料理。

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語り口は穏やかだけれど、熱のオーラが身体全体から発されていて、激しい炎が内側に燃えていることが振動のように伝わってくる、そんなシェフの中から、このような静と柔を備えた料理が生まれてくることに、驚きを持った。

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私が訪れた11月末の午後、小林シェフは、カタールへ行かれ、前日戻られたばかりだった。現地で一緒だったのは、フランスと世界を代表する、それこそ、世界に名前の轟く大御所中の大御所シェフ10名と一緒だったという。その中で数日間を過ごされて、小林シェフは、ご自身の進むべき道を再認識して戻ってこられた。

そして、今一度、一番大切にしたいのは、お店に訪れてくれる、一人一人のお客なのだと強く語る。三つ星シェフという肩書ができ、贅沢で特別な待遇を受けようとも、決して、その事は揺らがない、と話す。大きなオファーは、数知れずある。しかし、彼は、店に来てくれる一人一人のお客と向き合うことに、徹底的に、こだわっている。

小林シェフにとって、最も大切なのは、ここに今座ってくれている、それぞれのお客であり、そして、その個々の人が、彼の料理を食べ、Keiで過ごす時間によって、人生が変わってしまう程の、喜びを、何かを、与える事がしたいのだ、と話す。

１時間半にわたるインタビューの中で、幾度となく、”心”　という言葉がシェフの口から出た。

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”心を満たす時間を作りたい ”

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小林圭シェフの料理は、時に、自らの心を写す鏡のようなものかもしれない。

果たして、彼が人生をかけて投げかけて来るものを、自分はキャッチできているか、呼応できているか、感じ取れているか、それらが透けて見えてしまう。

＂お客との戦い”と、インタビューの最初に語った言葉の意味は、もしかしたら、お互いのこれまでの人生に繰り広げられてきた、喜びや悲しみ、を、どうやって自分たちは感じ取ってきたのかを、このお皿の上で確かめ合うという、一つの核融合のような反応の時間なのかと思えた。

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それが見事に光を散らした時、体験したことのないような、爆発的な感動が、白い陶器の上に立ち現れる。

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そんなことを考えていた時、食事を終えた１１歳の子供が、近づいてきて、とても美味しかった、一緒に写真を撮って欲しいと言った。
優しい口調で、丁寧に会話を交わすシェフ。
小林シェフにも、８歳の息子さんがいる。
温かい対応に、私も、自分の息子を三つ星に連れて行った時、子供に対してのサービスが整っていたことを話して、そういうお店もいいですよね、と伝えた。
すると、シェフは、

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「私の料理は子供には分からないですよ。それを求めてもいませんし」

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と、私のいい加減な「子供にも優しいレストランとお料理」、というコメントは、躊躇なく一蹴された。
そして、それは、当然だし、それを意識する必要など、どこにあるというのだろう。

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「まだ、感性が子供には育ちきっていないので、私が表現しているものが伝わるには、もう少し、年齢を重ねる必要があると思うのです」

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そう話すシェフであるが、話しかけた子供が、きっと、大人になってからも思い出すだろう、素晴らしい時間をこの日過ごしたという事実は、１１歳という嘘のない表情からも想像に難くない。

心に訴える時間をつくる、という小林シェフの想いは、子供には分からないと自称されても、しかし皿の上を飛び越えて、すでに子供の内側へも届けられていたと思う。

あるいは、彼という人間そのものが、このレストランには宿っていて、老若男女、そこに否応なしに惹きつけられる人々が、何かを求めて、また、再訪するのかもしれない。

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突き詰めると、レストランという価値は、

シェフという人間に、何かが、或るか、無いか。

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もしかすると、ただ、それだけかもしれない。

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そして、小林圭という人物には、その何かが宿る。

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Written by Naoko Shimizu Jeffries 　

ジェフリーズ清水直子

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Restaurant Kei 　(レストランケイ)

www.restaurant-kei.fr

5 Rue Coq Héron, 75001 Paris

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October 29, 2021 CHEFS, RESTAURANTS

MARU LONDON

a counter only 20 course Omakase by Taiji Maruyama

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A TRULY STRONG LONDON’s OMAKASE IS BORN

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When I received the call from the chef Maruyama san last week, I must say that I didn’t expect it to be an opening announcement.

He had told me that he was planning to open on the 15th of June, but after those never-ending Covid lockdowns, then even after the reopening, many chefs are telling me that they were just trying to adapt to the new situations.
So I never imagined that Taiji san would actually open on this day.
He also runs a popular restaurant, TAKA Marylebone.

But today, on right on 15th June, MARU LONDON had its grand opening.

I respect for his spirits and the way he pushes forward and does what he says he is going to do, even against great hardships.

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MARU is a counter table only, serving 20-course Omakase of sushi and small Japanese dishes.

I love its location.
It’s right on the doorstep of Shepherd Market.
It’s like Roji – an alleyway, yet with all the elegance of Mayfair, the kind of street you love to have your favourite counter seating restaurant in Japan.

From the moment I walked in, I felt nothing but comfort.
It could be because of the space, with a total of 8 seats (for the time being only 6) that is very compact for London restaurant, the sense of unity, and the warmth of the Japanese interior.
But more than that, I think it’s the fresh sensibility of Chef Maruyama san, with its vibrant personality, that you feel everywhere.
It’s not intrusive, not too casual, it is Japanese yet it blends into the London scene in a very natural way.

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Born in Fukushima Prefecture, chef TAIJI MARUYAMA san started his culinary career at a Kappo restaurant in Tokyo.
In 2005, he moved to London to work at NOBU Park Lane, where he gained experience of sushi.
And in 2017, he became the head chef at the newly opened luxury country estate in Surrey, Beaverbrook Hotel.
The experience he gained here, says Maruyama san, “has made me who I am as a chef today”

In the beginning at Beaverbrook, when he started to put together the Japanese menu, it was difficult to get fish from the suburbs.
He had to seek out his own suppliers, and after a lot of exchanges about what kind of fish he wanted, and what was good fish, Maruyama san developed a relationship of trust.
Eventually, he says, he was able to get better quality fish than he had in London.

He also learnt to value life by going hunting deer, hares and pigeons with a neighbouring butcher.

The historic hotel stands on 470 acres of private land as far as the eye can see.
He harvested the wild plants and mushrooms that live on this vast estate and even grew their own vegetables.

“To be at one with nature. It was here that I developed my relationship with the producers and my homage to the power of ingredients that can only be found in so close to the kitchen”

MARU is all about local production for local consumption, as we Japanese call it “Chisan Chisho”.

At MARU, this is not just a concept that we have become accustomed to hearing.
The 20-course Omakase menu uses all British ingredients except tuna.
For example, the soil from which the restaurant’s vegetables are grown is used to make the Dashi broth, and the seawater from Cornwall, where most of the fish used at MARU is caught, is used in the cooking process.

“ I’m looking for water now. The one perfectly soft for Japanese cuisine, but it has to be British “

he says.

I cannot recall there’s ever been a Japanese restaurant that’s been so committed to British produce.

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AGEING TECHNIQUE

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The ageing of sushi tane is recently often mentioned alongside the more traditional techniques.

In my post on MARU, which opened in June, I wrote about Chef Taiji Maruyama san’s love of and commitment to British ingredients.

But another highlight is his ageing technique.

The Dryager , which is usually used for ageing meats, is used here for tuna, and the first thing you might notice when you walk into the restaurant.

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The most interesting items I found was his cuttlefish nigiri.
The Cornish squid is “ICE BATH aged”, meaning that it is floated in ice water, at here, for 5 days.
This prevents the weight of the fish from crushing the cells in the flesh during maturation, and therefore prevents unnecessary water loss.
This prevention of dripping means that it prevents the fish from smelling or rotten, and importantly, from losing its umami flavour.

For a food lover, it’s a great pleasure to be able to taste the different ways of ageing.

It’s like an adventure into that microscopic world of food, a world that is still unknown to us, and which excites me like a child.

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Scallops
From the Orkney Islands. Also Ice Bath aged. Hand picked by diver John, whom Maruyama san only obtain from.

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Brill
From Cornwall. Kobu-shime for 2 hours and used Cornish salt explained as “the only salt I use” by the chef.

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Mackerel
Cured Cornish mackerel with Nori seaweed.

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Seabass
Dry aged for 5 days, grilled and served in a small bowl with shari rice.

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AKAMI ｜ TORO ｜ OTORO

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For tuna lovers, the last half of MARU’s Omakase will be like the finale of a fireworks display – you can’t help but cry with delight.
The last phase of the 20course started with fragrant Akami, followed by Chutoro which was as close as possible to Otoro, refined Zuke, and then the absolutely exquisite Otoro.

The carefully selected tuna comes from Balfego in Spain that is aged to achieve the ideal level of maturity and flavours that Chef Taiji Maruyama san envisions.

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AKAMI
10 day dry aged. This is perhaps the dish that shows the quality of the tuna and the restaurant’s ability the most in every way. The balance of the soy sauce, the aroma of the Akami itself, the freshness and the Umami from the ageing process make this nigiri supreme.

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ZUKE
Soy sauce from Shodoshima, which “has a wonderful aroma” is used for the very light marinade that lasts only 10 seconds. Sushi lovers will gasp with excitement at the thinly sliced, folded style. The balance of flavours is largely down to the chef’s own personal taste. Exquisite.

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CHUTORO
8 day dry aged. The temperature at which the rich, sublime fat is best tasted is excellent.

OTORO
8 day dry aged. The chef said it would reach the best to wait a little longer, but it was a perfect Nigiri. An imposing finale.

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THE POWER OF VEGETABLES

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In a sushi restaurant, it’s natural to focus on seafood, but when I muse on Japanese food culture, it’s impossible without thinking about the POWER of VEGETABLES.

With MARU’s “salad”, it is a pleasure to see it presented in the most direct way, and it is really delicious.

“It’s tempting to add something more, but I work hard to do as little as possible”

Chef Maruyama san says.

The vegetables are sourced from Namayasai, a trusted supplier for many top chefs, and are prepared in a way that the flavours come through directly – for example just salt, or just Kombu and water.

And then more joy arrives.

On a palette plate designed by the chef himself, the various sauces are placed like paints, and the vegetables are to be arranged BY US, like an abstract painting.

My work is shown at the first photo.

It is worth mentioning the sauces are also superb.
The five (or six) tastes such as sweetness, bitterness and umami are expressed with rhubarb, Kombu and Shungiku.
I liked the Kombu stock foam most.

The vegetables expressing themselves straight, assorted with the sauce that is also clear to taste, this allows the quality of the ingredients to resonate　powerfully with the intuitive senses.

It is meaningful for us to have a chance to create the dish, as diners are essentially passive.

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I truly amazed by how tasteful and flavourful those British fish and ingredients are…
Each dish is carefully thought, prepared to maximise its Umami, devoted to use up all the essences of the ingredients, and that all are bringing the deepest satisfactions and joy for the eyes, mind and heart…

I am extremely excited to see the birth of such a Japanese restaurant.
This is clearly, I can say, already one of the best Japanese in town.

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For MORE PHOTOS and VIDEO, Visit my Instagram

www.instagram.com/the.japan.set_naoko

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MARU LONDON
18 Shepherd Market, London W1J 7QH
www.marulondon.com

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April 8, 2021 CHEFS, FOOD & DRINK, RESTAURANTS, 日本語記事

新たなる ENDO を読み解く

Endo at the Rotunda

LONDON

Sushi Chef・KAZUTOSHI ENDO　｜　鮨職人・遠藤和年さん

【序章】

2020年12月

イギリスに新たな厳しいロックダウン規制が導入された後も、まだ、真っ新な、新年への希望は、決して消えてはいない。

年が明け、新しい Endoを訪れることにができるようになった時、ぜひ、知っておいていただきたいことがいくつかある。
知っていただければ、Endoでのかけがえのない食事の時間が、より深い意味を持ち、大切な思い出となるだろうと、信じているから。

９ヶ月間、店を離れている間、遠藤さんは多くの困難を乗り越えてこられた。
最も厳しいものだったこの時、「コロナとの戦いと挑戦と」は、別のページにも書かせていただいたので、もし、時間のある方は、ぜひ、こちらも読んでいただけると嬉しい。

この戦いの末に、そして、その記事を書いた直後にも、遠藤さんには窮地に立たされる危機が訪れており、先週の、ソフトオープニングの日というのは、まさに、瀕死の状態からの復活なのだった。

「心が折れる、と言いますが、私はこの時、本当に、折れてしまっていました。折れた枝が、薄皮、繊維一枚だけで、つながっているような感覚でした。もう、日本へ帰ろうと、本気で考えていたのです」

ソフトオープンの夜に、こうして、心の内を話してくださった時、遠藤さんの目尻にはうっすらと、涙が滲んでいた。

この頃の遠藤さんのお気持ちや、葛藤は、また、別の形できちんと残したいと思っている。

この記事では、それを超えた後の、今。
新しい章が始まったEndoで、どんな寿司が、料理が楽しめるかを、ぜひ、書かせていただきたい。

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【　第１章　舎利】

遠藤さんの挨拶と同じく、私も、あえて、この記事では詳細は書かないでおこうと思うが、９ヶ月間の閉店の最中「完全に自分はあの時、折れていた」と吐露された。

その後の新たな門出にあたって、遠藤さんが、一番、大きな物語として掲げているのが、シャリだ。

そもそも、このシャリから、新しい店への活力が生まれ、困難を乗り越えた後の再開へと結びつき、今日の日のような、不死鳥のような羽ばたきをみせたのだと思う。

何が違うのか。

なぜ、シャリなのか。

それは、引越しの際に、偶然、見つけた一つの箱だったと言う。
その箱の存在すら忘れていたそうだ。
開けてみると、中から、亡くなられた父上が所持していた書籍が出てきた。

初版は明治とある、古い江戸前鮨の書物。
遠藤さんの祖父と同時期の古い寿司について、細かく書かれたものだ。
お父様の書き込みが多く記されていた。
すぐさま、母親へ電話をし、話を聞いた。

何かの思し召しではないかと感じずにはいられなかった。
江戸時代の寿司シャリ。
その、レシピを見て、驚いた。
米の炊き方から、酢に至るまで、あらゆる事が違っている。
しかし、そこには科学的な根拠と合理性が備わっていた。

遠藤さんの祖父が、この時代のシャリを使って、鮨を握っていたことも、母親から聞いた。

“ これを、今のロンドンで出してみたい。
大切なお客さんを、江戸時代の日本へとお連れしたい。
過去、現在、未来。
点と点を、線でつなぎたい “

コロナ下での辛い気持ちが、走馬燈のように流れた。

今年一年を過ごして、
私たちの誰もが、
人間はどこから来て、どこへ行くのか、
そんなことを考えずにはいられなかったと思う。

新しいシャリは、砂糖を全く使用していない。
酢は、２ヶ月間熟成の酒粕酢を日本から取り寄せて使っている。
だからだろうか、砂糖がなくとも、全く角がなく、米が生み出す甘味だけで充分な塩梅となっている。

シャリ櫃を見て、少し驚いた。
初めて見る、小ぶりサイズのもの。
400gの米を、３回に分けて炊くという。
そして、その都度、それぞれの、使用する米の配合も変えている。

シャリだけを見せていただいた。
「以前より、もっと赤いでしょ」と、遠藤さんは微笑む。

遠藤さんのシャリは、ネタによって、全て温度が変えられていて、時に、非常に温かい。
例えば、この日のエビは人肌３６度、シャリは３０度程度、だそうだ。

そして、新しいコースでは、以前よりも、さらに、
手のひらで握りを受けとる数が増えている。

このシャリを、手のひらでいただく時、私たちは、どのような気持ちになるだろうか。

温かい鮨飯の温度が、直に伝わってくる感覚。
指でつまむよりも、さらに、繊細に握られた鮨。

２０品以上のコースを全て終えた後に、シャリの記憶が、驚くほど淡いことに気づく。
つまり、シャリの主張や押しつけなどが、まったく記憶として残っていない。
まさに、鮨シャリとしての、真骨頂なのではないだろうか。

「今のロンドンの気温って、江戸時代の日本の気温と、非常に近いんですよ」

思いがけない偶然を、心から喜ぶ遠藤さんの、
内側で暖かく発光するような小さな灯りが、実際に見えた気がした。

この、江戸時代のシャリで握る、彼の一刀入魂の握りを、次の章でご紹介したい。

***

　【　第２章　握り　】

「シャリが変わったので、ネタの仕込みも、すべて変えました。以前と全く違います」

店のスタッフは、最初にこれを告げられた時、「そこまでやるのですか？！」と、あまりの変化にかなり戸惑ったと言う。

ロックダウン中の夏頃、遠藤さんはすでに

「次に店を再開する時は、今まで同じようには開けないつもりです」

と話していた。

その頃は、普通に店を開けて、通常営業に戻ることだけでも、大変で精一杯だった時期だ。
今まで以上を目指すなど、考える気力すらないのが、誰にとっても当たり前だったと思う。
ただ、遠藤さんの中には、そういう考えは毛頭なかった。
待っていてくださり、食べに戻ってきてくれるお客さまに、なにか心に響くものを与えたい。自らがロックダウンで感じた、人と人とのつながりの意味を、より深く、密にしたい。
それもあって、これまで１０席だった店は、８席に減らすことにした。一人一人と、しっかり向き合いたい、という思いからだ。
店に行かれたことのある方、あるいは、写真で店内を見たことのある方は分かってもらえると思うが、ロンドンであのような広さ、細部にまで拘ったしつらい、一流のスタッフの数、の店としては、あり得ない席数だ。

「どこかで食べたことがある、というのでは、ダメだと思うんです」

そう遠藤さんが言い、次々と繰り出された鮨、握りは、まさに、有言実行で、一貫一貫に、凄みと猛烈な力、インパクトが漲っていた。

この日、全コース２０品のうち、鮨は１２貫。
そのうちの、いくつかをご紹介する。

・
・
・

トロ
この日は、スペイン・バレアス海、北大西洋ではなく地中海からのもので、カマの横の部位、大トロと中トロを出された。
熟成は８日間。全ての握りにおいて、しっかりと熟成はかけているものの、ただ、「やり過ぎない」とおっしゃる。熟成もやり過ぎてしまうと、脂がサラダオイルのようになってしまい、香りも損なわれてしまう、からだそうだ。

帆立
私がこの夜、最も衝撃を受けたネタは、帆立だ。遠藤さんは「この魚を買う、ではなく、この人から買う」を信条とする。この帆立を採ってこられるダイバーさんは、他の誰よりも、深く潜って採るのだそうだ。「ホタテがサバイブして（生き延びて）いるんですよ」と遠藤さんは言う。清涼な瑞々しさが炸裂する、あまりにも綺麗な帆立。海の美しい、清い部分だけを濃縮したような、真珠色に輝く帆立。そこに、2年がかりでやっと完成したという、塩分ゼロという昆布締めの英国産キャビアを合わせる。

鯖
同じく、サバの味わいの清さ、美しさにも感激した。そして、やはり、同じ海、エリアから獲られるのに、遠藤さんは、この人、という漁師さんから買う。その違いは、食べて、歴然とする。漁師の方の心意気と、ある種の優しさが、舌にビシビシ伝わってくる、この上なく美しい一貫だ。

牡蠣
遠藤さんが出されたこのネタには、江戸前仕事「漬け込み」が存分に施されている。煮蛤と同じ仕事を、牡蠣で仕立てあり、じんわりと、ゆっくりと、ふわりと、内に秘めるなんとも言えない、郷愁的な、一瞬にして自分の懐かしい過去の記憶に引き戻されたかと錯覚するような、そんな味わいが湧き上がってくる風味だ。

鱸
圧巻の一貫だ。これ程までに濃厚で力強いスズキをいただいたことは無い。熟成は４日間。旨味が限界に近づいている状態で、三枚付けいただく。ねっとりと口内を埋め尽くす旨みが強烈だ。

この他、山田錦の稲で薫香を付けた人気のサーモン。鰻は、今回は備長炭での炭火焼となっている。シグニチャーのトロのビジネスカードも健在だ。この他、コーンウォール産の昆布締めの烏賊、熟成キャビアを合わせたスコットランドのラングスティーン….、いずれもが特筆に値する。

今回、遠藤さんがフィロソフィーに掲げているのは、「一期一会」ではなく、「一座建立」だと話されていたが、この日、この瞬間限りの、出会いと味わいは、儚くも口からは消えるが、脳裏の記憶には鋭く、深く刻まれている。

***

【　第3 章　御料理　】

新しいEndoで、進化したのは、鮨だけではない。
もしかすると、その底上げが顕著だったのは、この御料理の品々だったのかもしれない。

日本料理の核である、出汁は、目の前で鰹節を削り、お椀が出るタイミングに合わせて引かれる。
温かい、引き立ての一番出汁の、立ち昇る香りと滋味を味わうと、穏やかな気持ちになる。

「最初に、心と身体を清めるような気持ちで、お出ししています」

この日の椀の具は季節もたけなわの蟹真薯であった。

さらに、変化に気づかずにはいられないのが、天ぷらの数々だ。
日本から届いた松茸。英国南部デボン産ロブスター。アンコウにはべっ甲あんが敷かれ、各々は、別々のタイミングで、天ぷらに仕立てられて登場する。
以前よりも軽い衣ゆえか、中の素材が大いに風味を発揮できる環境に整ってある。それぞれに合わせられる”ソース”にも遠藤さんの細部へのこだわりが感じられる。

印象に強く残ったのは、ブリのしゃぶしゃぶだ。吉野葛を絡めてから湯に潜らせることで、もっちりとした食感となり、旨味が密に閉じ込められている。
火を入れるには忍びないほどの、最上級のブリの濃厚さに負けない、しっかりとしたつゆも、丁寧な仕事を感じさせる。

焼き物は、鶉のくわ焼き。そして、トロの握りを何貫かいただいた後の、大トロの”炙り”と名付けられた、ステーキに匹敵するかの如く力強い焼き物。さらには、宮崎和牛肉を軽く火入れした一品。この和牛は、あまりにさりげなくコースの終盤に出されるが、この皿だけで、一つの投稿が書けるほどで、どこまでも、決して、力を抜かない遠藤さんのエネルギーが、この料理で炸裂するかのようだ。そして、これに、添えられるのが、塩釜で調理された、なまやさいさんが育てる、英国産の聖護院カブラとビーツ。わざわざ、これを調理するためだけに、釜を特注したという。

これらの料理は、料理はそれぞれ、握りの合間合間に挟み込まれて登場する。
鍛え抜かれた剛速の直球から、変化球までが、巧みに投げられる。

この一連の流れの中で食事をさせていただくと、明らかに、通常の鮨カウンターとは、全く異なる展開であることを、身体全体で実感する。
そして、これこそが、Endoを、この場所でしか体験し得ない、唯一無二ものとして屹立させているのだ、と気づかされる。
以前より、カウンターに座るお客様は、英国外から訪れている方が半分を占めていた、と言う。

・
・

一球闘魂の鮨の迫力に圧倒されて、しばし、放心している間に、このスーパースター級のお料理の数々がめくるめく登場する様を想像してほしい。。。

脳と、舌と、心の格闘技とも思えるかの如く、遠藤さんとの真剣勝負には、覚悟を持って、ぜひ、挑んでいただきたい。

***

【　最終章　結界　】

Endoを堪能するのは、ただ、そこに座って、遠藤さんに身を委ねるだけで、十分だ。

それでもやはり、少しだけでも彼の想いを知っていると、その貴重な時間が濃厚になると思い、この再開後のEndoシリーズを書かせていただいた。

この中で、一番、伝えておきたかったのが、この、結界だ。

（日本の方には馴染みのある言葉だと思うのですが、英語バージョンもあるため、海外の方にも分かりやすいよう、言葉の説明も書きたいと思います）

結界とは、元は仏教用語で、日常の中で、よく耳にするのは茶道の時かもしれない。
結界は、もともと修行僧が、修行に励むために、聖職者のエリアと、その外を分けたことが起源と言われている。
つまり、内と外、聖なる域と俗なる域を分ける境界線のことであるが、お寺や神社でなくとも、日常にも、ある種の結界は見てとれる。
例えば、商店の暖簾や、食事のお箸も、結界の一種だと考える向きもある。

ただ、遠藤さんが、レストランを聖域と考えているのではなく、単に、日常の煩わしさやな悩みなどから、せめて、Endoで食事をするときだけは解き放たれて、しばしの楽しい口福な時間を味わってほしい。そう願う気持ちを込めて、最初のドリンクを「結界」という名で出されている。
「結界」を越えて中に入り、その場に身を委ねると、いい時間に出会える。
遠藤さんは、そのためには、自らは全力を尽くして参ります、という、ある意味、彼にとっての決意表明なのだろうとも思う。

新しいコースは、五つのチャプターに分かれており、最初は「再会」から始まる。

再会に際して、いただくこの飲み物が、ほうじ茶がベースになった、ちょっとした趣向のあるこのドリンク。
口に入れると、なんとも言えない面白い趣向があるが、ネタバレにならないよう、ここでは割愛する。

そして、全てのコースを終えた後に、バーに座って、デザートと共にいただくのが、三種のお茶をブレンドしたものだ。ここでもやはり、同じほうじ茶が一番配合が多くされてあり、始めと終わりが、一巡して、まあるく完結するのを、しみじみ感じ取れる。

新しいEndoで、まだまだ、特筆したいことは多々あるのだが、いくつかに絞って、記させていだく。

備長炭
今回から、和歌山から入手する、備長炭を使って調理をしている。日本の料理ジャンルで、”職人技”と呼ばれる、いくつかの技術があるが、この、炭を扱う技術も、確実にその一つである。扱いは非常に難しいが、それを使いこなした時に得られる、未だかつて出会ったことのない素材の真の価値を引き出す、とてつもない威力。この場で、その一片に触れていただきたい。

お酒
菊谷なつきさん (www.museumofsake.co.uk）（ www.instagram.com/natsukipim ) がセレクションする日本酒が、さらにパワーアップしてる。日本でもなかなか手に入らないという銘柄を、Endoのために仕入れているそうだ。彼女の日本酒の目利きは一級で、彼女のアドバイスに従順に従えば、洗練された、格別の日本酒に辿り着ける。この日は新政のエクリュをいただいた。エレガントな芳香と舌あたり。華があり、躍動感のある味わい。まさに、Endoの新しい出発を祝うにふさわしいお酒だった。「そのお酒に物語があるかどうか」。なつきさんがお酒を選ぶときの基準となっている事柄だそうだ。　

BAR
海外では特に、日本料理や鮨の店と言えども、バーエリアを求められる。Endoのバーで、今、行われているのが、鮨に合わせたカクテルを出すこと..。これは、私にも、全く未知の世界で、今後、こちらのバーテンダー市川潤さんから、ご教授いただきたいと思っている。この前代未聞の取り組み。非常にワクワクさせられる。

スタッフ
遠藤さんのインパクトが強いEndoではあるが、その実力は、スタッフに大きくある。初めて遠藤さんをイベントでお見かけした時、隣に立つお弟子さんの動きに、私の目が釘付けになった。阿吽の呼吸を逃さない、シンクロした流れ。そのようなスタッフがいらっしゃることが、彼の大きさをあらわしてもいる。

「英国が本格的なロックダウンに突入した時、誰も辞めさせない、と決めました」

技術だけでなく、心のありようも素晴らしいスタッフの皆さん。お店では、ぜひ、このスタッフの皆さんの実力をも味わっていただきたい。

SUMI
すでにご存知で、食事、お弁当をテイクアウトされた方もいらっしゃると思うが、12月に遠藤さんが新しく出店した、カジュアルな店だ。お母様の名前からとった店名。店内の暖かい灯の中に足を踏み入れると、心休まるのは、そんなつながりがあるのかもしれない。鮨ヘッドシェフは、安田明徳さん。料理を担当するヘッドシェフにDavid Buryさん。遠藤さんの精神を大いに受け継がれている。小回りのきく、活気あるこの店が、これから、どんな面白い展開をされるのか、とにかく、目が離せない。

www.sushisumi.com

＊

序章を含め、五つの章に渡って長く書かせていただき、また、ここまで読んでいただきまして、本当にありがとうございます。
唯一無二のEndo at Rotundaの世界。
文章と映像で堪能していただけていれば、とても光栄です。

＊＊＊

ブログに先立って掲載したインスタグラムの投稿へ、皆様からの様々な感想をいただき、大変励みになっています。
いただいた応援、嬉しいメッセージも、遠藤さんへ、きちんとお伝えしています。
ぜひ、皆さんのコメントを書き込んでくださいませ。

（インスタにはビデオも載せていますので、ぜひ、よろしければご覧ください）

今はただ、一刻も早く、感染が収束し、また、元のようにレストランで食事のできる日が戻ることを祈るばかりです。

そして、生産者の方々、サプライヤーの方々が、新しいブレグジット後の規制の下も、変わりない環境が続き、これまで同様の素晴らしい食材をご提供できる状況であることを、心より願っております。

お世話になった皆さまに心より感謝申し上げます。

ジェフリーズ直子

Naoko Jeffries

March 29, 2021 CHEFS, FOOD & DRINK, RESTAURANTS

Decoding the New Chapter of ENDO at the ROTUNDA

Kazutoshi Endo ’s New Challenge

新たなる ENDO を読み解く　[鮨職人・遠藤和年さん]

FOREWORD – 序章 –

・

I believe that hope for a new year has not disappeared.

When the next year comes and we are able to visit the new Endo at Rotunda, there are a few things I’d suggest you to know.
I believe these knowledge will make your time and dishes have a deeper meaning and make it even more precious memory.

During the nine months away from the restaurant, Endo san has overcome many difficulties.
I have written a piece about his battles during the lockdown “Finding My Taigi”, so if you have time, I would be grateful if you could read it too.

After all these challenges, and just after I wrote the article, he faced another extreme difficulties, and the last week’s soft-opening day was all about coming back from the brink of death.

“They say that the heart is broken, but I was indeed broken at this time. It was like a broken branch with only a thin layer of skin, a single fiber, holding it together. I was thinking of going back to Japan”

When he spoke to me at the end of the soft opening day last week, I saw tears in the corners of his eyes.

I will leave to write about his feelings and struggles at that time for another opportunity.

In coming my posts, I would like to tell you about the present, after he has gone beyond that point, the new chapter that has begun at Endo, and his brand new sushi and food you can enjoy there.

・

***

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Vol.1 　SHARI – 　sushi rice　舎利

・

Like Endo san’s greeting at the opening, I, too, dare not go into details in this article, but during the nine months of closure, he confided that “I was completely broken at that time”.

The most important story of the new beginning that Endo san states is Shari – sushi rice.

Shari was the new start of it all.

Shari was the source of the energy that allowed him to reopen the restaurant after the difficulties he had faced, like a phoenix flapping its wings.

So what’s the difference?

And why Shari?

He says it was a box he found by chance when he was moving house.
He had forgotten that the box even existed.
When he opened it, he found a book that belonged to his father who had passed away.

This is an old book on Edomae Sushi, first published in the Meiji period.
It is a detailed description of old sushi from the same period as Endo san’s grandfather.
Many of Endo san’s father’s notes were there too.
He immediately called his mother and asked her about this.

Endo san couldn’t help but feels that this was a sign.
Sushi rice from the Edo period, more than 100 years ago.
He was surprised when he saw the recipe.
Everything was different; the way the rice was cooked, the vinegar they used…
However, there was scientific reasons and rationale behind it.

His mother told him that his grandfather used to make sushi using this Shari.

A passionate feeling welled up inside Endo san.

“I want to serve this sushi in London today.
I would like to take my dear customers to Edo-period Japan.
Past, present and future…..I want to connect the dots”

The painful feeling of being under the pandemic run through him, like a revolving lantern.

Throughout this year, I don’t think any of us have been able to stop thinking about where we come from and where we are going.

・

The new Shari is completely sugar free.
The vinegar Endo san uses now is made from sake lees, aged for two months and brought from Japan.
This may bring out the sweetness and the roundness of the rice even without sugar, and is creating the perfect “Anbai” balance.

I was a little surprised when I saw the really tiny rice chest.
The shari is cooked in three portions of 400g each.
And each time, Endo san changes the mix of rice used.

Endo san showed me a small portion of the rice.

“Can you see it’s even redder than before?”

he says, smiling.

・

・

Endo san’s Shari is used at different temperatures depending on the ingredients, and is sometimes very warm.
For example, on this day, the prawns were 36°C, at the body temperature, while the Shari was about 30°C.

And in the new course, we are receiving even more nigiri in the palm of our hands than before.
How do we feel when we receive this new Shari in the palm of our hand?
You can feel the temperature of the warm sushi rice directly in your hand.
Moreover, the nigiri is made even more delicate than when we pick it up with our fingers.

After finishing all 20 plus courses, you realise that your memory of Shari is remarkably faint.
In other words, there is no sense of the rice’s insistence or imposition.
This is the absolute core essence of sushi rice.

・
・
・

“The temperature in London today is very close to the temperature in Japan in the Edo period,”

said Endo san, delighted at the unexpected coincidence.

I felt I could see the little lights glowing warmly inside him.

・

＊＊＊

・

Vol.２　NIGIRI　握り

“ The Shari has now changed, so the preparation of the Neta has all changed. It’s completely, totally different”

When the staff at the restaurant were first told about the change, they were quite perplexed: “Chef, are we going that far?”

In the summer, during the lockdown, Endo san told me already that “The next time we reopen, I won’t do it normally”

At that time, I think it was June, just to reopen the restaurant and get back to normal business was very difficult. It was normal for anyone to not even have the energy to think about making it better than before. But Endo san had no such thoughts in his mind. He wants to give something reaching to the customers’ heart who are waiting for him and come back to eat. He wants to deepen the meanings of the human connection he felt at the lockdown. So, Endo san decided to reduce the number of seats from 10 to 8. This is because he wants to be able to face each person more individually. If you’ve ever been to the restaurant or seen a picture of it, you’ll know that the number of seats is completely unthinkable in a place like London, with that space, that décor and that first class staff.

“I don’t think it’s enough to serve sushi that you would say you’ve eaten somewhere before”

The sushi and nigiri he served were exactly what he promised.
Each piece was strewn with intensity, emotional power and powerful impressions.
They were utterly magnificent.　

On this day, out of the 20 dishes in the course, there were 12 pieces of sushi and nigiri.

For the new course for this time of the reopening, Endo san states his philosophy is not common “Ichigo Ichie” – to treat every meeting is like once in a lifetime, but “Ichiza Konryu” – to stand as one unit.

On that night, at that moment, it was still my Ichigo Ichie, and the encounter and the taste were ephemerally disappeared in my mouth, but they are keenly and deeply etched in the memory of my mind.

・

TORO
On this day, we were served the Otoro and Chutoro, the part next to Kama, from the Spanish Balearic Sea, not the North Atlantic but the Mediterranean.
(In the video, he says that tomorrow it will be lockdown again, so only the best of the best parts will be served)
The fish is aged for 8 days. This Neta was carefully aged to bring out its deep flavour and umami, but “not too much”, he says. He doesn’t overdo it, because if he does, the fat becomes like vegetable oil and the flavour is lost.

・

SCALLOPS
The most sensational nigiri of the night for me was the scallops. Endo san’s philosophy is “Not buy this fish, but buy from this person”. The diver who brought us this scallops dives deeper than anyone else. “They are alive” says Endo san. The scallops tasted like a beauty out-of-this world. Ultimately pure, bursting with rare elements of the deep water. It was like a pearl that they seem to concentrate only the beautiful, purity of the sea. Unbelievable flavour. And the actual scallops magically disapper from your mouth in a moment. I was left with the feeling of a pounding heart…… There, on top, is the British caviar of Kobujime and containing no salt, which Endo san took two years to create.

・

MACKEREL
I was also impressed by the cleanness and delicate aroma of the mackerel. Endo san buys his mackerel from a fisherman he put his trusts in full. Even though the fish come from the same sea and area, the difference is obvious when you eat it. It is the beautiful sushi, with the spirit of the fishermen and a certain tenderness that is palpable on the tongue.

OYSTER
This oyster are made with the same technique as Nihama, the Edomae work called “Tsukekomi” that is also often used for Hamaguri clams. Very traditional method, cooked in soy, sake and other ingredients, but Endo san’s one is extremely softly done. In your mouth, this nigiri, slowly and roundly, delivers an indescribable nostalgic flavour that brings you back to the memories of your past in an instant.

・

SEA BASS
This is the superb sea bass sushi. Never come crossed before such a rich and powerful sea bass. Four days ageing, a piece of three slices. The umami created by the ageing is remarkably intense that fills the mouth with a lingering pleasure.

OTHERS
In addition to the above, the popular salmon is fragrant with Yamadanishiki smoked rice straw.. The eel is this time charcoal grilled with Binchotan. The signature “business card” is still in place. Other highlights include Kobujime squid from Cornwall and Scottish langoustines with aged caviar …. All of these are excellent and moving.

・

***

・

Vol.3 　ORYORI 　dishes　お料理

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Sushi is not the only thing that has evolved at the new Endo.
Perhaps it is the Oryori – dishes that have clearly improved the most.

The Dashi, the core of Japanese cuisine, was made in front of us, from shaving dried bonito flakes, just in time for the Wan dish to be served.
The aroma and flavour was rising up and the warm, freshly prepared prime Dashi sooth my body and calm my mind.

“At the beginning of the meal, I serve Dashi dish as if to purify the body and soul”

This day’s Wan was with crab Shinjo, which is the delight of the season.

What’s more, you can’t help but notice the changes: the Tempura.
Fragrant Matsutake mushrooms from Japan. Lobster from Brigham, Devon. The monkfish is covered in Bekko an sauce made with dark soy and thicken with Kuzu. And these tempura are served at different times, interspersed between the courses.
The batter is lighter than before, allowing the flavours of the ingredients to shine through. Endo’s attention to detail is also evident in the different sauces that accompany each dish.

Each of these dishes appears interspersed between the nigiri, and they are as like from the well-honed fast, straight ball to the screwball, Endo throws them with skill.
It’s a completely different experience from the usual sushi counter.
This is what makes restaurant Endo a unique experience, it stands out as the only one of its kind.

Imagine being so overwhelmed by the power of sushi, which Endo san put his soul in every “throw”, that you let your mind wander for a moment, while a dazzling array of superstar dishes makes its appearance.

Be prepared for a serious match with Endo san , the one to stimulate the brain, delight the tongue and shake the heart.

The most memorable Oryori for me was the yellow tail Shabu-Shabu. The yellow tail is lightly glazed with Yoshino kuzu before being parboiled for a second, giving it a plump texture and sealing in the flavours.
The dipping Tsuyu sauce is as rich as the supreme quality yellow tail which almost too good to cook. You will see Endo san’s meticulous work in it.

For the Yakimono grill dish, we first had Kuwa-Yaki quail. After a couple of pieces of toro nigiri, we had a powerful dish called “seared” Otoro, which was almost as like steak. And then there is the Miyazaki Wagyu beef, very delicately cooked. This beef was served so unobtrusively at the end of the course, but I could write a whole post on this dish alone. It was a real burst of energy from Endo san, with no corners cut. The dish was accompanied by British Shogoin turnip and beetroot, cooked in a Shio Gama. The vegetables are covered all over with salt, placed in a ceramic container and cooked slowly in the oven. The pots were specially ordered just for this dish.

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Vol. 4 KEKKAI　　結界

To enjoy restaurant Endo, it is enough to just sit there and leave yourself in the hands of Endo san.

Still, knowing a little bit about the chef’s thoughts would make your precious time at this place even richer, so I decided to write this series after the reopening.

What I wanted to tell you the most in this series is KEKKAI – the boundary.

This word, which is difficult to understand immediately on hearing, appears at the beginning of Endo’s dinner. This is why I felt compelled to tell you and write this article.

KEKKAI is originally a Buddhist term, which is often heard perhaps during a tea ceremony.
It is said to have originated when monks separated the sacred area from the secular area in order to practice asceticism.
In other words, it is a boundary line that separates the inside from the outside, the sacred from the profane, but we can also see certain kinds of wards in our daily lives, not only in temples and shrines.
For example, Noren- the curtain of a shop, or placing the chopsticks in a line for a meal are also considered to be a kind of boundary.

However, it’s not that Endo san considers his restaurant a sanctuary. It’s just that he wants us to be free from the troubles and worries of everyday life, at least when we dine at Endo, and to enjoy a moment of pleasure. That’s why the first drink is called “KEKKAI”. After this drink, you will feel calm and happy.
In other words, I think, Endo is expressing his determination to do his utmost to make this happen.

The new course is divided into five chapters, the first of which is “Reunion” , where you will be served Kekkai drink based on Hojicha tea, with a slight twist.
I won’t go in details not to spoil it for you.

When the course is over, we sit at the bar and are served a blend of three different teas. Again, the same Houjicha is used in the greatest proportions. I felt the beginning and the end coming full circle.

BINCHOTAN
Now, Endo san is cooking with Binchotan charcoal from Wakayama. There are a number of techniques in Japanese cuisine that are known as ” Shokunin Waza – artisanal”, and this technique of using Bonchotan is certainly one of them. It is very difficult to handle, but when it is mastered, it has a tremendous power to bring out the true value of ingredients that you may have never been encountered before. You can get a taste of it at Endo.

SAKE
Natsuki Kikutani who is in charge with Sake and Wine menu at Endo has uppedated her selection of Sake. She sources some of the hardest to find brands in Japan for the restaurant. Her sake connoisseurship is first class, and if you follow her advice, you’ll meet a refined and exceptional Sake. On this night, I had ARAMASA Ecru. Elegant in aroma and texture, the taste is floral and dynamic. It was the perfect Sake to celebrate Endo’s new start. Natsuki san’s philosophy is “whether the sake tells a story”.

BAR
At the Endo bar, they are now serving cocktails to go with the sushi…. This is a completely new world for me and I hope to learn more from the bartender, Jun Ichikawa. This is an unprecedented initiative. It’s very exciting.

THE STAFF
Although Endo san has a strong impact, it is the staff that make the difference. The first time I saw Endo san at an event, my eyes were glued to the movements of the apprentice standing next to him. The synchronised flow of his movements, the way he never misses a breath. The fact that he has such a staff shows how excellent he is.

“ When Britain went into full lockdown, I decided that I would not let anyone go “
Endo san told me.

The staff are wonderful, not only in their skills but also in their hearts. At the restaurant, I hope you will also relish the competence of all these staff members.

SUMI
SUMI is a new casual restaurant opened by Endo san in December. It’s named after his mother. Perhaps it is this connection that you feel like a warm welcome when you step into the calm light of the restaurant. The head Sushi chef is Akinori Yasuda san and the head cuisine chef is David Bury, who both have inherited much of Endo san’s spirit. It will be interesting to see what the future holds for this lively restaurant. www.sushisumi.com

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I have written about new Endo at Rotunda in five chapters including the foreword.
I’d like to thank you all for letting me write this long texts, and for reading this far.
The world of Endo at Rotunda is One and Only…
I hope that you have enjoyed the stories, the picture and the film images.
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Please do check lively actions with some films that are up on my Instagram.

www.instagram.com/the.japan.set_naoko/

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I can only hope that we can return to eating in restaurants soon.
I am also wishing all the producers and suppliers the best of luck in continuing to provide the same excellent food under the new post-Brexit regulations.
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Thank you from the bottom of my hearts to everyone who gave me the wonderful opportunity and the kind support for me.
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December 2020
Naoko
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January 20, 2021 CHEFS, FOOD & DRINK, RESTAURANTS

Prestigious A5 Wagyu Sando by Chef Taiji Maruyama, TAKA Marylebone

There is a Sando (Sandwiches for Japanese) that is currently much talked about and simply the best in London. It’s WAGYU STEAK SANDO created by a team of exciting modern Japanese restaurant TAKA Marylebone London, lead by the executive chef TAIJI MARUYAMA.

No one argue that A5 (the highest grade) is the most sought after Japanese Wagyu beef, and at TAKA, they use only this top player.

Chef MARUYAMA san has a long experience at Nobu Restaurant and Mr Nobu Matsuhisa himself cared for and looked after the chef, and he also has worked at the famous Japanese restaurant in UK, Beaverbrook Hotel.
Over a long period of time, Maruyama san has built up a strong relationship of trust and great passion with a meat wholesaler who specialises in only the finest authentic Japanese Wagyu beef.

“We use A5 grade, which our customers love and today’s Wagyu is from Kagoshima in Kyushu; A5 is so precious that I don’t want anything to go to waste at all, including the fat “

says the chef.

To create Wagyu sando, the chef chose to use Japanese loaf bread Shokupan from Happy Sky Bakery which has soft and bouncy texture with a subtle sweetness as like the one in Japan.

The sirloin steak 80g is cooked heavenly perfect to medium rare, the heat gently gone through, with no rare part or no tough part, a refine finish.
The Wagyu is first Sous Vide at 55°C for 15 minutes and then cooked in a veg oil bath for only 30 seconds, in a piping hot pan.

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The sauce is the chef’s version of “Worcestershire sauce” made from Haccho miso.
It has a taste reminiscent of Katsu sauce and makes the beef feel like it. Very clever.

Other ingredients include English mustard and butter. Chef Maruyama wanted to create a dish that blended Japan and England together.

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（Have a look the cooking process on my Insta Reels Posting）

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View this post on Instagram

A post shared by naoko jeffries 🤍 Japanese food (@the.japan.set_naoko)

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THE TASTE ….

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Despite the image of its big meaty alpha appearance, the actual taste is really light.
The fat of the finest Wagyu melts at a low temperature, making it light on the tongue and not rich or heavy when tasted.
Only the gorgeous sweetness of the beautiful Wagyu fat remains, lingering on the palate.
The flavour also merges with the Shokupan’s sweetness along side with the mustard and the spicy sauce which giving a good kick.
It’s just a delight sando that will fulfil your body and mind

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Chef TAIJI MARUYAMA’s great creativity and philosophy go beyond the super popular sando.

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When I met the chef, the first word Maruyama san told me was,

“I don’t want to waste any tiny parts of the Wagyu. Use up every part of the beef, even the fat and drippings”

The chef’s “Head to Tail Eating” philosophy is reflected in every dish on the menu here.
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KAGOSHIMA WAGYU STEAK HACHE is another highly recommended dish, which is actually a not mince pate, but SIRLOIN steak strips formed into a hache. This allows the flavour and good biting texture of Wagyu greatly alive… Really really juicy with excellent meat flavours, so satisfying at ever bite. Absolutely gem dish 🚀 A good competitor to the Wagyu Sando 💪🏻

WAGYU DRIPPING RICE BOWL is the one where you find the chef’s thought from… as he wanted to use up even all the drippings. So he created fantastic Sukiyaki flavour bowl of rice, which you eat with Nori seaweed. This is another amazing dish ⭐️ made by a brilliant talent.

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Chef’s love for the ingredients goes deep in vegetables, distinguished with @namayasai farm in Sussex.

TSUKEMONO (pickled vegetables) SALAD or SUSSEX PUMPKIN WITH TRUFFLE MISO showing how much vegetables can express…

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MOCHI FLATBREAD really surprised me, with its real Mochi-like texture, nice plump and the wonderful “chewinesss”.

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TAKA Marylebone

www.takalondon.com

Landing Page

December 7, 2020 CHEFS, FOOD & DRINK, RESTAURANTS, 日本語記事

ROKETSU 　Gozen Bento by Daisuke Hayashi 　　　「露結」by　林大介　“京懐石の息吹”

【LATEST NEWS】 ROKETSU GOZEN BENTO by Chef Daisuke Hayashi.

京料理界を代表する、林大介シェフの新たなる懐石料理店「露結」の　御膳弁当。

（日本語記事は、英語版の後にあります）

“Absolutely Phenomenal ” is my heartfelt voice.

I clearly, confidently would like to say that the opening of Chef Daisuke Hayashi’s new restaurant ROKETSU (scheduled in Spring 2021) will be one of the most important and exciting events in Japanese cuisine for the coming year.

And this gorgeous Bento Box, limited numbers only each week, is a sneak peek of what it will be like.

Each “dish” of this Bento is absolutely phenomenal.

Chef Hayashi san is a genuine master of Kyoto cuisine, trained under Yoshihiro Murata of Kyoto Kikunoi, who holds seven Michelin stars and “The Don” of Kyoto Cuisine, for more than 10 years before moved to London in 2009.

There are not many chefs even in Japan, who are steeped in deep traditions, trained in the highest prestige and have mastered the art of cooking, Kyo Kaiseki.
Chef Hayashi’s classic Kaiseki technique is unparalleled, and the knowledge on Japan’s traditions and the cuisine is vast.

After Hayashi san moved to London, with his mentor Mr. Murata san’s strong desire to bring authentic Japanese cuisine to the world, he helped and worked for several new openings as the executive chef including Tokimeite in Mayfair.
At there, he and Murata san have explored Japanese dishes which would suit Western palates, but for this time, after waited for more than a decade, Hayashi san decided to open his own restaurant and he is determined to create authentic Kaiseki, just like the one served in Japan.

“ In making this Bento, I have simply followed the tradition and cooked it the way it was meant to be cooked.“

The chef says modestly that he just did normal thing, but as we all know, doing “normal” is the difficult thing.
And for me, someone who is living outside Japan and at least know the differences of the water hardness and the ingredients for example, to cook like in Japan seemed an impossible task…

This Gozen Bento took me straight to Kyoto.

It was surprising and inspiring.
Never before have I had such authentic and totally consistent Japanese food abroad.

Since I first arrived at London 1995, I have seen brutal reality of that it is extremely difficult to recreate real Japanese food outside Japan.
It is because, Japanese cuisine is hugely rely on its unique nature, so the further away you go from it, the more severe the condition becomes.

Master Murata told me that nearly 40 years ago, when he went to France to cook a Kaiseki dinner with other top Kaiseki chefs, he took all the water and ingredients with him from Japan.
He was devastated by the reality that he could not cook Japanese without bringing all of that.
Since then he has worked to make Japanese food using local ingredients, but I have been seeing that it is extremely challenging.

So, having this Bento in front of me, the taste of Japan, the taste of Kyoto, spread out in front of me and came back to life, and I wondered how it was possible to make such food.

It’s a Bento that seems to have magically appeared from somewhere else.

🍱 TO ORDER :

www.jgourmet.co.uk/exclusive

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露結　by 林大介　シェフ

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来春に開店が予定されている「露結」。

海外における日本料理界、来る０２１年の、日本料理の一つの大きな転換点、となるであろう、

非常に重要な意味を持つ、新たなお店。

記事巻頭の写真は、こちらの御膳弁当です。

この度、「露結」を立ち上げ、牽引されるのは、林大介オーナー料理長。

京都・菊乃井本店の村田吉弘氏の元で、１０年以上に渡り、確かな技術と伝統を身につけられ、2008年の北海道でのG8サミットの際には、この国際会議の料理を全て総指揮されました。

その後、2009年に渡英され、長きに渡り、ロンドン、欧州にて、日本食レストランの立ち上げ、料理長を務める傍ら、海外における日本料理の普及と啓蒙に尽力を尽くされてきました。

日本料理の伝統技術と深い知識、何よりも、日本料理の心を有する、数少ない、料理人さんです。

その林シェフが、満を辞して、ご自身のお店、ロンドンでは初のカウンター懐石料理店となる「露結」を、来年春ごろ、立ち上げられます。

この、御膳弁当は、その一端を、まさに垣間見れ、体験できる、貴重なお弁当と言えます。

長く、海外に住んでいらっしゃる方、海外でイベントをされたり、今、こちらで包丁を握っておられる料理人の方々は、きっと、深く頷いていただけると思うのですが、いかに、海外で日本料理を作ることが難しいか。。。

日本料理が、日本の自然と非常に親密に寄り添っているため、そこから遠ざかれば遠ざかるほどに、その、厳しさは増していきます。

私自身、１９９５年の初渡英より、これまでも、多少なりの現状を見てきましたが、心痛く思う現実に、何度も、打ちのめされることがありました。

それが、このお弁当を手にとり、今、驚きと、感動と、喜びに包まれています。

林さんは

「当たり前のことを、当たり前にやっただけ」

とおっしゃいますが、その、当たり前を遂行することが、どれほど難しいか。。。

こちらをいただいて、目の前に、口の中に、あの、日本の、京都の味わいが広がり、蘇り、全くもって、どうして、このような御弁当ができるのか、まるで魔法のような、別の世界からふと現れたような、奇跡、とでも呼びたい御弁当なのです。

この、普通でない２０２０年、最後の月に、突如、舞い降りた、希望とでも呼びたいような、一つのお箱。

この後、いくつかの投稿で、こちらのお料理の内容を書かせていただきたいと思っております。

🍱 この御膳のご注文はこちらより。