Tag: #japanesefood

May 30, 2024 FOOD & DRINK, RESTAURANTS, 日本語記事

麤皮 ARAGAWA ロンドン

昨年ロンドンのメイフェアにオープンした「ARAGAWA LONDON」。未だ、ベールに包まれている、和牛の至高「麤皮 ロンドン」の全貌に迫ります。

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密やかに一部の食通の間で囁かれている「ARAGAWA」という名を、もしすでに聞いているなら、あなたはきっと、日本の和牛に精通している方に違いない。ロンドンの洗練されたメイフェアに佇むこのステーキハウスは、昨年10月、東京店と同じスタイルでオープンした。しかし未だ、このロンドン店はベールに包まれていると言えよう。

ARAGAWAロンドン店を噂で知る人にとっては、店のイメージは二つに分かれることだろう。

驚くほどの価格で提供されるステーキの店。あるいは、日本の和牛の頂点を味わえる聖域。

1967年に東京で創業し、フランスの美食家で文学の巨匠であるオノレ・ド・バルザックの同名小説にちなんで名付けられた「麤皮（あらがわ）」は、最高の質を誇る日本のステーキ店の中でも、伝説的な存在として知られる。昨年、この店が、ロンドンの静かな通りに、東京本店と呼応する形で根を下ろした。オーナーの小川光太郎氏は、国外であっても、最高のものだけを提供するという揺るぎない信念を、この数年の間、私に語ってくださった。コマーシャル化され過ぎた今の風潮を避け、開店後も、本物への真摯な姿勢を示し続けている。

この、稀有なステーキ店は、一種の排他的なオーラに包まれつつ、この数ヶ月間は限られた美食家たちだけが味わう場所として在り続けてきた。この記事では、その肉の、料理の、和牛が誇る至宝の如き層を一つずつ解き明かしながら、その類まれな和牛の世界を巡っていく。麤皮を麤皮たらしめるレガシー、それを生み出す職人技、そこにかける真摯な取り組みを探求していきたい。

このステーキの名店と日本の和牛の頂点を理解するために、知っておくべき重要なキーワードがいくつかある。それらを一つずつ、詳しく掘り下げていこう。

第一章：　

和牛の最高峰、純血統但馬種

まずは、なによりも肝心な事から話さなければならない。

肉、について。

海外でも人気の高いWagyu。メニューでもその名を見かけると、特別な牛肉の扱いであることが即座にわかる。そして、価格もそれ相応に反応していることは、皆さんも周知の事だろう。しかし、Wagyuとは、訳せばJapanese cattleであり、日本在来種の牛をベースに交配を繰り返してつくられた牛のことを指す。和牛として認められるのは、「黒毛和種」「褐毛（あかげ）和種」「日本短角種」「無角和種」の4品種と、それらの品種間のハイブリッド。「黒毛和牛」は、そのうち90％以上を占めている。

1970年代から90年代にかけて、和牛の遺伝資源がオーストラリアやアメリカなどに持ち込まれ育てられたことにより、外国産の ”Wagyu” と記された肉も海外に出回るようになった。しかし、これらの牛肉は、日本で生まれ育った和牛とは、飼育環境や品質などが異なったWagyuであることは知っておきたい。

メニューに書かれている ”Wagyu” の文字だけでは、果たして、それが、日本で飼育されたものか、そうでないか、の区別はつかない。より厳密に日本産 Wagyu を求めるならば、日本の産地名をそこに探す必要がある。日本の地名が示すのは、それはその地方の基準に則って飼育された和牛である証だ。日本では、和牛肉を「和牛」として販売するためには、国内での飼育と品種の基準を満たすこと、そして追跡可能な10桁の個体識別番号の提示が必須とされている。

しかし、日本の中で最良質とされる黒毛和牛は、その元を辿れば、兵庫県の但馬牛、という種に行き着く。

但馬牛は、１６世紀ごろより、その素晴らしい肉質を人々が認識し始め、その味わいを高めるための多大な努力がなされてきた。しかし、明治後半、より多くの肉身を得る目的で外国種との交配が過剰に行われ、品質が大きく変化してしまった。その事実に気づいた時には、事態は絶滅の危機に瀕していた。しかし、奇跡的に、たった四頭のみ、交配を免れて純血牛として存在していた牛が、兵庫県の小さな村で見つかった。これが、何百年にも渡り、日本で最高峰と言われていた但馬牛だ。

その四頭を大切に保護し、丁寧に継承をした結果、但馬牛は復活を遂げた。今、日本で上質の肉とされている黒毛和牛のほとんどは、この但馬種を源流にもつと言われている。但馬牛は、長年かけて得られた知見に基づく、特別な環境と飼育方法、その稀なる品種の特性から、深みある旨みを持ち、肉の芳香も高く、そして、何よりもサシの融点が他種の牛と比べて10℃程度低い。それだけに、食べた時の脂の口溶けがすこぶる綺麗なのだ。

もし、日本の牛肉の頂点を求めるなら、まずは但馬種の血統をもつ牛であることが非常に大切だ。その中でも、直結の純血を保っているものは、すこぶる少ない。美味なる和牛を求めるなら、まずは、純潔但馬牛であることが必須だ。その上で、究極の美味しさ、最高峰の味わいをとことん突き詰めるならば、最終的には、肥育農家が誰であるか、が、何にも増して、要となる決定的要素だ。

天然の漁や狩猟であっても、誰がその生き物をとるのかは、品質に大いに関わってくる。どの季節に、どの場所へ赴き、どのようにして獲物を見つけ出し、そして、仕留めた後の処理をどのようにして、どのような気持ちで成すか。全ては人の手に委ねられている。ましてや、それが、農場や牧場のように、人の手がさらに大きく関わるとなると、その人物の手に甚大な影響力が生まれる。

そんな、名肥育家が扱う牛の中でも、買い手が肥育家とどれだけの信頼関係を持っているかは、さらに大きな意味を持つ。彼らがどれだけ特別な配慮を施して飼育しているか、雌牛か去勢牛か、経産牛か否か、肥育月数、飼料、肥育環境など、そういった重要なファクターを丁寧に加味し、そして、それらをも超えたこだわりが、最終的に、極稀で、希少な数のみの最高峰の肉質を持つ牛となって誕生する。そこには、人と人とのつながりが大きく関わっている。

そのような世界では、今日明日で仕入れが可能になるような牛は、どこにもない。

麤皮には、日本に数多とある但馬牛の中でも、国内であっても幻と呼ばれるランクの、最高峰の和牛がある。

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その一つが岡崎牧場。但馬純血種、雌牛のみ。滋賀県近江にある岡崎牧場は、日本全国の肉を扱う高級店の誰もが、この農家の肉を手に入れたいと願う農家だ。そして、麤皮オーナーの小川光太郎氏は、岡崎牧場と10年以上の付き合いを重ね、現在の牧場オーナーである6代目岡崎氏へ、味わいを見越したリクエストを重ね、共に試行錯誤して肥育を行なっている。そうしてようやく生み出される、稀なる味わいの、麤皮のためだけの肉が創り上げられる。

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「特に、私が心を割いているのが、肥育月数です」

と小川氏は言う。

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「麤皮では38ヶ月から、長いものだと、60ヶ月肥育された肉を使います。長期肥育を岡崎さんと本格的に試み始めたのは、７、8年前ぐらいからです。当然、コストもかかるし、それだけ長く育てても、必ずしもいい牛になるとは限らないのです。それでも、長期肥育に心を割いて挑戦し続けるのは、その味わいが短期肥育では決して得られないものだからです」

ここ数年、日本の牛肉の世界では長期肥育が盛んに謳われるようになってきたが、このトレンドは、麤皮が作り出したものである。

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「長期肥育された牛の肉質は、脂の融点がさらにグッと下がります。口溶けが非常によくなり、食べた時の脂の溶ける滑らかなセンセーションが全く変わってきます。そして、そのサシだけでなく、脂と赤身が融合しあったような、食感。サシと赤身に広がる、非常に奥行き深い旨みがのってきます」

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その言葉通り、麤皮の肉は、分かりやすい突出した脂だけがインパクトを持つ和牛とは一線を画す。日本の上質の肉をそれなりに食べてきた人であっても、それまでにない新しい境地を、そこに見ることができる。麤皮の肉には、和牛の中でも特に芳醇な香り、キメの細やかで品のある柔和で滑らかな肉質、繊細な脂、深みと余韻の長い旨み、複雑に層を重ね持つ味わい、がある。

もし、あらゆる食において、特に、日本の素材の最高のものを初めてを口にするとき、人は、そのあまりにも上品で、エレガントな風味、しかし、奥行きのある余韻の長い深い味わいに、静かに驚く。あるいは、もしかすると、その清涼で繊細な軽やかさに拍子抜けするかもしれない。

もし、これまで特に、勢いのある押し出しの強い味わい、言い換えれば、インパクトだけを強調した風味に慣れてしまっていたなら、そのギャップは顕著だろう。

しかしどうか、ワインで考えて欲しい。あなたがもしワイン通なら、極め付けのブルゴーニュは、果たしてそういった大太刀まわりの派手な味わいだろうか…。

年月を重ねた素晴らしいヴィンテージの、希少価値の高い作り手による、小規模な畑から生まれたその珠玉の一杯。そこには、深淵に潜むあまりにも美しい余韻と繊細な風味があるはずで、もし、あなたがそれを認め、好むのであれば、麤皮の肉へも、同じアプローチで接してほしい。

すると、和牛という世界の、新しい扉が開くはずだ。

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ARAGAWA ロンドン では、岡崎牧場の他、小川氏が長年付き合いを重ねる、同じく極上の肥育農家から仕入れる肉だけが揃う。但馬純血統の未経産雌牛、長期肥育の肉、そして部位は、極上のサーロイン、フィレ、ランプ、ラム芯、イチボなどが用意されている。

400gの塊で焼き上げられたステーキは、一人分200gの、堂々とした高さのある姿で美しく盛りつけられてテーブルに運ばれる。この分量は非常に食べ応えがある。

これだけの肉を焼くには、当然のことながら、日本有数の焼き手、職人が求められる。

私が、なぜ今、ARAGAWAロンドンで肉を食べたいか、と聞かれると、現在、このロンドン店に、麤皮東京店で40年以上に渡り、肉を扱い、焼きを担ってきた職人・今吉和雄氏が、いるからだ。

職人、とは、その道を極めた人物を指す。

今吉氏については、次章で語る。

【ARAGAWA】
38 Clarges Street
London W1J 7EN

https://aragawa-uk.com

https://www.instagram.com/aragawa_uk/

May 16, 2022 CHEFS, FOOD & DRINK, RESTAURANTS, TRAVEL

TSUROKU – Kappo restaurant ｜ Kyoto

A fifteen seats counter restaurant where you can order and enjoy authentic Kyoto-flavoured food in the way you like it.

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Recently, I have heard the name ‘Tsuroku’ many times from various sources.
Most of them were “a restaurant that Kyoto people go to secretly” or “It’s talked about a lot amongst food lovers”

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So when I called up the restaurant only a few days in advance, I was more than happy to be able to get seats, unlike these days in Kyoto or in the major cities in Japan, and I felt that this was the way of dining in this town, as often written about by the great writers of the past.

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This 15 seats, counter only restaurant TSUROKU is tucked away at the end of a narrow alleyway in Kyoto’s Sanjo area.
There are no set courses here, you can chose from 40-something dishes in the menu, that gave me a deepest delight.

The freedom that I can have whatever I like allowed me to be myself and thoroughly relaxed.


KAPPOU is the style to be called, compared to KAISEKI course.

This service style may put the chef and owner into more hard work, physically and financially, but Tsuroku’s chef KENTO UEDA san, who worked at the now legendary restaurant KYOAJI in Tokyo – has the spirit to accept this as he believes it’s more enjoyable for diners.

Ueda san’s thought was true.
All the dishes I chose for the evening perfectly fitted to my mood and appetite.
Besides, he brought me new surprises beyond my imagination.

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Lovely entrance, almost secret hidden place. The restaurant is located at the end of the narrow alley, which I spent some time to find…

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I was very happy when I found Shinjo dish in the menu, it’s a type of dish normally used pasted fish and make into a dumpling form, but Shinjo’s texture is more like soufflé, and often the main food for Wanmono, soup dish, that is the star dish of Kaiseki course. I chose Japanese icefish Shinjo. The dish canme with clear soup and its subtle taste slowly spread – it’s truly the embodiment of Kyoto flavour.

The crispy yet juicy Guji (Kyoto way of calling Tilefish) Matsugasa-yaki was worthy of special mention. The skin was grilled to really crunchy but the carefully maintained moisture content of the meat bring out the individuality of the fish. The flavour is light, clean and carefully constructed, without being at all intrusive, and even though chef Ueda san is a young man, I even get a certain sense of mastery.

These two dishes are regarded as his signature, and there, I fully noticed and received the rich yet tranquil flavours expressed by Ueda-san.

Butterbur tofu with white miso paste.
Sashimi of the day: tuna, sea bream and pen shell.
Japanese icefish Shinjo clear soup, served with seasonal bamboo shoots.
Matsugasa-yaki Guji (tile fish), which is the signature dish of Tsuroku.
The pleasantly crispy skin, the carefully maintained moisture content of the fish bring out the character of each fish.

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As I enjoyed the chef’s signature dishes to the full, the drinks and relaxed good conversation were well underway, the unforgettable these two dishes of the evening were served.

The first one was a small pot of sliced BEAR LOIN and HANA SAHNSHO pepper with bamboo shoots.

A small Donabe pot dish of the delicacy meat of bear simmering hot in an earthenware pot, with the broth also simmering and boiling.
After it’s brought out on the counter, it continued to dissipate the energy of deliciousness for a while.

The tenderness of the bear meat and the smooth melting of the fat…
The depth of the broth’s flavour.
Both the Hana Sansho and the powerful peak of the season’s bamboo shoots were even overwhelmed by the bear meat’s impression.

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And the other one was

KARASUMI MISO TEMPRA

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Karasumi is one of the most popular delicacies to go really well with Sake. It’s made by drying mullet in the sun and is similar to Italian bottarga, but Karasumi contains more moisture and has a very soft texture.

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This dish, combined with a bone china cup of the special Junmai Sake “Denshu”, was heavenly good and my friends and I had no choice but to exclaim in admiration again and again.
I could eat several more plates of this, even for a few hours… I was driven by such thoughts.

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The sake suggested by the restaurant were all good, well-considered.
The sake was poured into the glass generously, a service that would satisfy anyone.

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At Tsuroku, there is a warm atmosphere that welcomes everyone.
Conversation comes naturally, and you can enjoy the food and drinks in your own way, even though it is your first visit.

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There are not many such restaurants.

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It is the kind of place that leaves a long lasting aftertaste and makes you decide to revisit.

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TSUROKU
TEL +81 75 275 3926
51 Matsuyacho, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto, JAPAN
Opening: Mon-Sat Dinner 5pm-
Closed: Sun

www.instagram.com/tsuroku_kyoto/

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Visit my Instagram for more articles and videos about Tsuroku, Kyoto and Japanese food !!

www.instagram.com/the.japan.set_naoko

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March 29, 2021 CHEFS, FOOD & DRINK, RESTAURANTS

Decoding the New Chapter of ENDO at the ROTUNDA

Kazutoshi Endo ’s New Challenge

新たなる ENDO を読み解く　[鮨職人・遠藤和年さん]

FOREWORD – 序章 –

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I believe that hope for a new year has not disappeared.

When the next year comes and we are able to visit the new Endo at Rotunda, there are a few things I’d suggest you to know.
I believe these knowledge will make your time and dishes have a deeper meaning and make it even more precious memory.

During the nine months away from the restaurant, Endo san has overcome many difficulties.
I have written a piece about his battles during the lockdown “Finding My Taigi”, so if you have time, I would be grateful if you could read it too.


After all these challenges, and just after I wrote the article, he faced another extreme difficulties, and the last week’s soft-opening day was all about coming back from the brink of death.

“They say that the heart is broken, but I was indeed broken at this time. It was like a broken branch with only a thin layer of skin, a single fiber, holding it together. I was thinking of going back to Japan”

When he spoke to me at the end of the soft opening day last week, I saw tears in the corners of his eyes.

I will leave to write about his feelings and struggles at that time for another opportunity.

In coming my posts, I would like to tell you about the present, after he has gone beyond that point, the new chapter that has begun at Endo, and his brand new sushi and food you can enjoy there.

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Vol.1 　SHARI – 　sushi rice　舎利

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Like Endo san’s greeting at the opening, I, too, dare not go into details in this article, but during the nine months of closure, he confided that “I was completely broken at that time”.

The most important story of the new beginning that Endo san states is Shari – sushi rice.

Shari was the new start of it all.

Shari was the source of the energy that allowed him to reopen the restaurant after the difficulties he had faced, like a phoenix flapping its wings.

So what’s the difference?

And why Shari?

He says it was a box he found by chance when he was moving house.
He had forgotten that the box even existed.
When he opened it, he found a book that belonged to his father who had passed away.

This is an old book on Edomae Sushi, first published in the Meiji period.
It is a detailed description of old sushi from the same period as Endo san’s grandfather.
Many of Endo san’s father’s notes were there too.
He immediately called his mother and asked her about this.

Endo san couldn’t help but feels that this was a sign.
Sushi rice from the Edo period, more than 100 years ago.
He was surprised when he saw the recipe.
Everything was different; the way the rice was cooked, the vinegar they used…
However, there was scientific reasons and rationale behind it.

His mother told him that his grandfather used to make sushi using this Shari.

A passionate feeling welled up inside Endo san.

“I want to serve this sushi in London today.
I would like to take my dear customers to Edo-period Japan.
Past, present and future…..I want to connect the dots”

The painful feeling of being under the pandemic run through him, like a revolving lantern.

Throughout this year, I don’t think any of us have been able to stop thinking about where we come from and where we are going.

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The new Shari is completely sugar free.
The vinegar Endo san uses now is made from sake lees, aged for two months and brought from Japan.
This may bring out the sweetness and the roundness of the rice even without sugar, and is creating the perfect “Anbai” balance.

I was a little surprised when I saw the really tiny rice chest.
The shari is cooked in three portions of 400g each.
And each time, Endo san changes the mix of rice used.

Endo san showed me a small portion of the rice.

“Can you see it’s even redder than before?”

he says, smiling.

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Endo san’s Shari is used at different temperatures depending on the ingredients, and is sometimes very warm.
For example, on this day, the prawns were 36°C, at the body temperature, while the Shari was about 30°C.

And in the new course, we are receiving even more nigiri in the palm of our hands than before.
How do we feel when we receive this new Shari in the palm of our hand?
You can feel the temperature of the warm sushi rice directly in your hand.
Moreover, the nigiri is made even more delicate than when we pick it up with our fingers.

After finishing all 20 plus courses, you realise that your memory of Shari is remarkably faint.
In other words, there is no sense of the rice’s insistence or imposition.
This is the absolute core essence of sushi rice.

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“The temperature in London today is very close to the temperature in Japan in the Edo period,”

said Endo san, delighted at the unexpected coincidence.

I felt I could see the little lights glowing warmly inside him.

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Vol.２ 　NIGIRI　握り

“ The Shari has now changed, so the preparation of the Neta has all changed. It’s completely, totally different”

When the staff at the restaurant were first told about the change, they were quite perplexed: “Chef, are we going that far?”

In the summer, during the lockdown, Endo san told me already that “The next time we reopen, I won’t do it normally”

At that time, I think it was June, just to reopen the restaurant and get back to normal business was very difficult. It was normal for anyone to not even have the energy to think about making it better than before. But Endo san had no such thoughts in his mind. He wants to give something reaching to the customers’ heart who are waiting for him and come back to eat. He wants to deepen the meanings of the human connection he felt at the lockdown. So, Endo san decided to reduce the number of seats from 10 to 8. This is because he wants to be able to face each person more individually. If you’ve ever been to the restaurant or seen a picture of it, you’ll know that the number of seats is completely unthinkable in a place like London, with that space, that décor and that first class staff.

“I don’t think it’s enough to serve sushi that you would say you’ve eaten somewhere before”

The sushi and nigiri he served were exactly what he promised.
Each piece was strewn with intensity, emotional power and powerful impressions.
They were utterly magnificent.　

On this day, out of the 20 dishes in the course, there were 12 pieces of sushi and nigiri.

For the new course for this time of the reopening, Endo san states his philosophy is not common “Ichigo Ichie” – to treat every meeting is like once in a lifetime, but “Ichiza Konryu” – to stand as one unit.

On that night, at that moment, it was still my Ichigo Ichie, and the encounter and the taste were ephemerally disappeared in my mouth, but they are keenly and deeply etched in the memory of my mind.

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TORO
On this day, we were served the Otoro and Chutoro, the part next to Kama, from the Spanish Balearic Sea, not the North Atlantic but the Mediterranean.
(In the video, he says that tomorrow it will be lockdown again, so only the best of the best parts will be served)
The fish is aged for 8 days. This Neta was carefully aged to bring out its deep flavour and umami, but “not too much”, he says. He doesn’t overdo it, because if he does, the fat becomes like vegetable oil and the flavour is lost.

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SCALLOPS
The most sensational nigiri of the night for me was the scallops. Endo san’s philosophy is “Not buy this fish, but buy from this person”. The diver who brought us this scallops dives deeper than anyone else. “They are alive” says Endo san. The scallops tasted like a beauty out-of-this world. Ultimately pure, bursting with rare elements of the deep water. It was like a pearl that they seem to concentrate only the beautiful, purity of the sea. Unbelievable flavour. And the actual scallops magically disapper from your mouth in a moment. I was left with the feeling of a pounding heart…… There, on top, is the British caviar of Kobujime and containing no salt, which Endo san took two years to create.

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MACKEREL
I was also impressed by the cleanness and delicate aroma of the mackerel. Endo san buys his mackerel from a fisherman he put his trusts in full. Even though the fish come from the same sea and area, the difference is obvious when you eat it. It is the beautiful sushi, with the spirit of the fishermen and a certain tenderness that is palpable on the tongue.

OYSTER
This oyster are made with the same technique as Nihama, the Edomae work called “Tsukekomi” that is also often used for Hamaguri clams. Very traditional method, cooked in soy, sake and other ingredients, but Endo san’s one is extremely softly done. In your mouth, this nigiri, slowly and roundly, delivers an indescribable nostalgic flavour that brings you back to the memories of your past in an instant.

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SEA BASS
This is the superb sea bass sushi. Never come crossed before such a rich and powerful sea bass. Four days ageing, a piece of three slices. The umami created by the ageing is remarkably intense that fills the mouth with a lingering pleasure.

OTHERS
In addition to the above, the popular salmon is fragrant with Yamadanishiki smoked rice straw.. The eel is this time charcoal grilled with Binchotan. The signature “business card” is still in place. Other highlights include Kobujime squid from Cornwall and Scottish langoustines with aged caviar …. All of these are excellent and moving.

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Vol.3 　ORYORI 　dishes　お料理

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Sushi is not the only thing that has evolved at the new Endo.
Perhaps it is the Oryori – dishes that have clearly improved the most.

The Dashi, the core of Japanese cuisine, was made in front of us, from shaving dried bonito flakes, just in time for the Wan dish to be served.
The aroma and flavour was rising up and the warm, freshly prepared prime Dashi sooth my body and calm my mind.

“At the beginning of the meal, I serve Dashi dish as if to purify the body and soul”

This day’s Wan was with crab Shinjo, which is the delight of the season.

What’s more, you can’t help but notice the changes: the Tempura.
Fragrant Matsutake mushrooms from Japan. Lobster from Brigham, Devon. The monkfish is covered in Bekko an sauce made with dark soy and thicken with Kuzu. And these tempura are served at different times, interspersed between the courses.
The batter is lighter than before, allowing the flavours of the ingredients to shine through. Endo’s attention to detail is also evident in the different sauces that accompany each dish.

Each of these dishes appears interspersed between the nigiri, and they are as like from the well-honed fast, straight ball to the screwball, Endo throws them with skill.
It’s a completely different experience from the usual sushi counter.
This is what makes restaurant Endo a unique experience, it stands out as the only one of its kind.

Imagine being so overwhelmed by the power of sushi, which Endo san put his soul in every “throw”, that you let your mind wander for a moment, while a dazzling array of superstar dishes makes its appearance.

Be prepared for a serious match with Endo san , the one to stimulate the brain, delight the tongue and shake the heart.

The most memorable Oryori for me was the yellow tail Shabu-Shabu. The yellow tail is lightly glazed with Yoshino kuzu before being parboiled for a second, giving it a plump texture and sealing in the flavours.
The dipping Tsuyu sauce is as rich as the supreme quality yellow tail which almost too good to cook. You will see Endo san’s meticulous work in it.

For the Yakimono grill dish, we first had Kuwa-Yaki quail. After a couple of pieces of toro nigiri, we had a powerful dish called “seared” Otoro, which was almost as like steak. And then there is the Miyazaki Wagyu beef, very delicately cooked. This beef was served so unobtrusively at the end of the course, but I could write a whole post on this dish alone. It was a real burst of energy from Endo san, with no corners cut. The dish was accompanied by British Shogoin turnip and beetroot, cooked in a Shio Gama. The vegetables are covered all over with salt, placed in a ceramic container and cooked slowly in the oven. The pots were specially ordered just for this dish.

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Vol. 4 KEKKAI　　結界

To enjoy restaurant Endo, it is enough to just sit there and leave yourself in the hands of Endo san.

Still, knowing a little bit about the chef’s thoughts would make your precious time at this place even richer, so I decided to write this series after the reopening.

What I wanted to tell you the most in this series is KEKKAI – the boundary.

This word, which is difficult to understand immediately on hearing, appears at the beginning of Endo’s dinner. This is why I felt compelled to tell you and write this article.

KEKKAI is originally a Buddhist term, which is often heard perhaps during a tea ceremony.
It is said to have originated when monks separated the sacred area from the secular area in order to practice asceticism.
In other words, it is a boundary line that separates the inside from the outside, the sacred from the profane, but we can also see certain kinds of wards in our daily lives, not only in temples and shrines.
For example, Noren- the curtain of a shop, or placing the chopsticks in a line for a meal are also considered to be a kind of boundary.

However, it’s not that Endo san considers his restaurant a sanctuary. It’s just that he wants us to be free from the troubles and worries of everyday life, at least when we dine at Endo, and to enjoy a moment of pleasure. That’s why the first drink is called “KEKKAI”. After this drink, you will feel calm and happy.
In other words, I think, Endo is expressing his determination to do his utmost to make this happen.

The new course is divided into five chapters, the first of which is “Reunion” , where you will be served Kekkai drink based on Hojicha tea, with a slight twist.
I won’t go in details not to spoil it for you.

When the course is over, we sit at the bar and are served a blend of three different teas. Again, the same Houjicha is used in the greatest proportions. I felt the beginning and the end coming full circle.

BINCHOTAN
Now, Endo san is cooking with Binchotan charcoal from Wakayama. There are a number of techniques in Japanese cuisine that are known as ” Shokunin Waza – artisanal”, and this technique of using Bonchotan is certainly one of them. It is very difficult to handle, but when it is mastered, it has a tremendous power to bring out the true value of ingredients that you may have never been encountered before. You can get a taste of it at Endo.

SAKE
Natsuki Kikutani who is in charge with Sake and Wine menu at Endo has uppedated her selection of Sake. She sources some of the hardest to find brands in Japan for the restaurant. Her sake connoisseurship is first class, and if you follow her advice, you’ll meet a refined and exceptional Sake. On this night, I had ARAMASA Ecru. Elegant in aroma and texture, the taste is floral and dynamic. It was the perfect Sake to celebrate Endo’s new start. Natsuki san’s philosophy is “whether the sake tells a story”.

BAR
At the Endo bar, they are now serving cocktails to go with the sushi…. This is a completely new world for me and I hope to learn more from the bartender, Jun Ichikawa. This is an unprecedented initiative. It’s very exciting.

THE STAFF
Although Endo san has a strong impact, it is the staff that make the difference. The first time I saw Endo san at an event, my eyes were glued to the movements of the apprentice standing next to him. The synchronised flow of his movements, the way he never misses a breath. The fact that he has such a staff shows how excellent he is.

“ When Britain went into full lockdown, I decided that I would not let anyone go “
Endo san told me.

The staff are wonderful, not only in their skills but also in their hearts. At the restaurant, I hope you will also relish the competence of all these staff members.

SUMI
SUMI is a new casual restaurant opened by Endo san in December. It’s named after his mother. Perhaps it is this connection that you feel like a warm welcome when you step into the calm light of the restaurant. The head Sushi chef is Akinori Yasuda san and the head cuisine chef is David Bury, who both have inherited much of Endo san’s spirit. It will be interesting to see what the future holds for this lively restaurant. www.sushisumi.com

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I have written about new Endo at Rotunda in five chapters including the foreword.
I’d like to thank you all for letting me write this long texts, and for reading this far.
The world of Endo at Rotunda is One and Only…
I hope that you have enjoyed the stories, the picture and the film images.
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Please do check lively actions with some films that are up on my Instagram.

www.instagram.com/the.japan.set_naoko/

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I can only hope that we can return to eating in restaurants soon.
I am also wishing all the producers and suppliers the best of luck in continuing to provide the same excellent food under the new post-Brexit regulations.
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Thank you from the bottom of my hearts to everyone who gave me the wonderful opportunity and the kind support for me.
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December 2020
Naoko
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January 20, 2021 CHEFS, FOOD & DRINK, RESTAURANTS

Prestigious A5 Wagyu Sando by Chef Taiji Maruyama, TAKA Marylebone

KAGOSHIMA A5 WAGYU STEAK SANDO

There is a Sando (Sandwiches for Japanese) that is currently much talked about and simply the best in London. It’s WAGYU STEAK SANDO created by a team of exciting modern Japanese restaurant TAKA Marylebone London, lead by the executive chef TAIJI MARUYAMA.

No one argue that A5 (the highest grade) is the most sought after Japanese Wagyu beef, and at TAKA, they use only this top player.

Chef MARUYAMA san has a long experience at Nobu Restaurant and Mr Nobu Matsuhisa himself cared for and looked after the chef, and he also has worked at the famous Japanese restaurant in UK, Beaverbrook Hotel.
Over a long period of time, Maruyama san has built up a strong relationship of trust and great passion with a meat wholesaler who specialises in only the finest authentic Japanese Wagyu beef.

Executive chef TAIJI MARUYAMA

“We use A5 grade, which our customers love and today’s Wagyu is from Kagoshima in Kyushu; A5 is so precious that I don’t want anything to go to waste at all, including the fat “

says the chef.

To create Wagyu sando, the chef chose to use Japanese loaf bread Shokupan from Happy Sky Bakery which has soft and bouncy texture with a subtle sweetness as like the one in Japan.

The sirloin steak 80g is cooked heavenly perfect to medium rare, the heat gently gone through, with no rare part or no tough part, a refine finish.
The Wagyu is first Sous Vide at 55°C for 15 minutes and then cooked in a veg oil bath for only 30 seconds, in a piping hot pan.

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The sauce is the chef’s version of “Worcestershire sauce” made from Haccho miso.
It has a taste reminiscent of Katsu sauce and makes the beef feel like it. Very clever.

Other ingredients include English mustard and butter. Chef Maruyama wanted to create a dish that blended Japan and England together.

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（Have a look the cooking process on my Insta Reels Posting）

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THE TASTE ….

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Despite the image of its big meaty alpha appearance, the actual taste is really light.
The fat of the finest Wagyu melts at a low temperature, making it light on the tongue and not rich or heavy when tasted.
Only the gorgeous sweetness of the beautiful Wagyu fat remains, lingering on the palate.
The flavour also merges with the Shokupan’s sweetness along side with the mustard and the spicy sauce which giving a good kick.
It’s just a delight sando that will fulfil your body and mind

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Chef TAIJI MARUYAMA’s great creativity and philosophy go beyond the super popular sando.


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When I met the chef, the first word Maruyama san told me was,

“I don’t want to waste any tiny parts of the Wagyu. Use up every part of the beef, even the fat and drippings”

The chef’s “Head to Tail Eating” philosophy is reflected in every dish on the menu here.
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KAGOSHIMA WAGYU STEAK HACHE is another highly recommended dish, which is actually a not mince pate, but SIRLOIN steak strips formed into a hache. This allows the flavour and good biting texture of Wagyu greatly alive… Really really juicy with excellent meat flavours, so satisfying at ever bite. Absolutely gem dish 🚀 A good competitor to the Wagyu Sando 💪🏻

WAGYU DRIPPING RICE BOWL is the one where you find the chef’s thought from… as he wanted to use up even all the drippings. So he created fantastic Sukiyaki flavour bowl of rice, which you eat with Nori seaweed. This is another amazing dish ⭐️ made by a brilliant talent.

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Chef’s love for the ingredients goes deep in vegetables, distinguished with @namayasai farm in Sussex.

TSUKEMONO (pickled vegetables) SALAD or SUSSEX PUMPKIN WITH TRUFFLE MISO showing how much vegetables can express…

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MOCHI FLATBREAD really surprised me, with its real Mochi-like texture, nice plump and the wonderful “chewinesss”.

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TAKA Marylebone

www.takalondon.com

Landing Page
July 29, 2020 CHEFS, RESTAURANTS

Endo at the Rotunda・ sushi chef・ Kazutoshi Endo “Finding my Taigi 大義”

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March 2020.  

The storm of Corona virus has hit hard England.  

One Michelin stared restaurant – Endo at the Rotunda – its sushi chef, Kazutoshi Endo, has thrown himself into the turbulence to help people during the pandemic.  

I hear the story of his fights and the path of finding his destiny over the last few months.  

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*****

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In June, one morning on Wednesday at 11.30am, 

Endo san answered my phone call.  

It had been a while since I last spoke to him, before the lockdown had been declared.   

I had only exchanged a few texts with him.  

Energetic, is the word to describe Endo san in short.   

He has a special gravity.  

He draws everyone in with his attractive demeanour, always uplifting with his great spirit, but today, his voice was rather quiet.  

I had already explained to him the purpose of this interview.  

I wanted a record of his work during the lockdown, so anyone can find it and see it on the web.         

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“There were some interviews from various media yesterday, but most of the questions were about my career as a sushi chef.”   

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His tone of voice was telling that there was much more to tell.

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The lockdown applied in England from the end of March, and all hospitality business confronted closing their doors.  

The government swiftly issued the support of 80% of income, and then, each restaurant faced a myriad of different situations.   

There were the ones who has enough cash to stay closed at least for coming weeks or months,  

the ones who started takeaways to survive, to keep business going to support staff or their business,  

and the ones who had to end their business permanently…  

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“Did you manage to obtain full support from the government scheme?”   

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 I didn’t intend to start our conversation with this question.

Japanese etiquette is to avoid asking in such a straightforward manner and even before asking if he has been safe and well.

That made me feel bad, but at the same time, I could be foreseeing the stories of that he could do all the voluntary works because he was in the safe hands, being fully supported.

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“I didn’t tell to anyone that I was going to do this voluntary work. I decided I’ll do it and I just started it. So no one knew what I was going to do and I even didn’t know much about the government support scheme” 

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I felt surprised.

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“But everyone who’s in our business were really thankful to me when they found it out”  

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 He started telling me the story.

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I WANT TO REPAY   

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Endo at The Rotunda opened April 2019 on the top floor of Television Centre, a fashionable new development in West London.  

After only five and half months, he achieved his first Michelin star.   

From that moment, Endo san started to feel he needed to do more to support society.  

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In January, Corona pandemic hit the world, first in Asia.  

Endo san was watching the news coming from Japan and knew that this virus will soon arrive to England.     

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On the 23rd of March, England went into the lockdown.  

The whole first week Endo san couldn’t stop thinking about what he should do, what he can do as a sushi chef, but it was too overwhelming, and he couldn’t find the right answer.  

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Most of Europe was entering a critical state. 

 Devastatingly large fatality numbers.   

Strict police enforcement of lockdown was applied in many countries.  

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“I have a friend who is a doctor at Chelsea and Westminster Hospital, and he told me that all the staff were exhausted and no time to eat…  When I heard this, I thought that’s what I can do”          

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Endo san was born in Yokohama, southwest of Tokyo, the third generation in a traditional sushi restaurant.  

He trained under a famous sushi chef in Tokyo and moved to London in 2007.  

Since then, he worked in New York, Dubai and Hong Kong but he says it’s London that made him to become a mature sushi chef.  

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 “I feel a debt of gratitude towards this city”

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He decided to make and provide roll sushi boxes for people on the frontline of the crisis.

He tackled it straight away.

The box he created contained four large size sushi rolls.  

Each roll had Unagi Japanese eel, Dashi maki egg omelet and soy flavoured Kanpyo dried gourd.  

 Those sushi were really generous in size and ingredients, you would be delighted to see this quality in Japan.　

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“In April, we made 150-200 boxes a day.  

At The Berkeley Hotel in Knightsbridge, there was a drive-through service pit for police and ambulance staff.  

We provided sushi boxes there.  

Everyone who came were surprised to see sushi there… I saw many beautiful smiles.   

Our team delivered to some hospitals in London too.  

By May, I heard many volunteers were bringing meals to hospitals and it seemed enough food was there, but I was told sushi was very popular, so we didn’t stop and kept at it twice a week”

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“How many boxes have been made?”

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“Well I think a few….”

 grinned, Endo san. 

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Simple calculations tell us roughly 9000 boxes have been made by the end of June.  

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“Around this time, I started thinking I’ve got to do something for our customers”  

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TEARS FOR TAKEAWAYS

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“That takeaway bento is my expression of gratefulness”   

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When the lockdown was declared and restaurants were closed,  

there was a clear change for all of us, how we ate and what to eat.  

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The supermarkets shelves were empty.  

There were queues outside the shops with people in hope to secure what was left.  

You traveled to a small shop attached to a petrol station because someone told you there’s food there.  

Or you find yourself staring at the screen of Ocado, finding 5600 people waiting before you can log in, and it’s only at 6 am.   

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The first few days may have passed by baking with your children and cooking new recipes at home with limited ingredients.  

 After a while, you really started missing the food, professionally chosen then cooked with skill and care.  

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Amid this mood, Endo san announced he would set to create his takeaways.  

In under an hour of the booking line opening, endo’s takeaway boxes were sold out, 1200 of them.    

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Is the craze for the gourmet food still very much alive during this pandemic?  

Just before pandemic, many people were jetting around the world only to eat.

The high-end restaurants seats were some of the most desired tickets with those places booked up good months or years ahead.  

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“Everything has changed entirely”   

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whispered Endo san.  

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The new era is clearly here, which leads us to ask the fundamental question.

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“What is quintessence of food?”       

“What does food mean to us?”    

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Endo’s gourmet sushi bento maybe regarded as a symbol of a high-end food craze.  

But certainly, for some people, it wasn’t.  

The bento has a different meaning for them, far beyond high-end gourmet takeaway.  

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“Some of the customers never imagined I would personally deliver the bento boxes to their doorstep”  

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A few cried when they received the bento.    

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No one would have comprehended the circumstances that people shed tears for takeaway food.   

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“I simply wanted to see them, see their faces and say hello, to make sure both of us are well. I thought that gives us encouragements and happiness”  

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A BENTO MADE OF GRATITUDE   

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The sushi bento consists of two layers; an upper box made of bamboo skins, the lower specially made wooden box and then wrapped with Japanese cloth.  

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In the upper box, Bara Chirashi sits neatly.  

It is very much like his restaurant signature course; sashimi of aged sea bass and sea bream together with Otoro – the most luxurious cut of tuna, delicately cooked oysters and Unagi eel, soft boiled lobster, and slices of grilled Wagyu beef.      

It’s an all-star line up  

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The lower box contains his famous Wagyu sandwiches, the beef is juicy rare. 

 Alongside the sandwiches are maki rolls filled with huge chunks of tuna.  

Then you see the salad. The bright greens of selected seasonal fresh vegetables.   

Asparagus, cabbage, carrots, mushrooms… these humble vegetables are an unexpected explosion of flavor, vibrant and lively. 

Scenes of bright green farms flash in your mind.  

A surprise, you will find a small jar of caviar in the corner.  

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Every single ingredient is expressing the chef’s heart and spirit.

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Each bento has a handwritten message from the chef.  

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“My purpose was to connect three of us, the customers, the producers and me.  

After the restaurants closed, many of my suppliers faced difficulties… they started really struggling. 

Some are on the edge of breaking.  

I felt a responsibility to them, I felt I must keep buying their food.  

Some of them were producing goods specially for me.  

I wanted to show my appreciation for my customers.  

When you put all of this in mind, only choice I could make is that to make bento boxes without any profit, and we needed work as volunteer.   

I told my young staff if they are not for it then they don’t need to come.

But everyone joined me.  

They told me we all must do it as a team, without anyone missing, then this bento will have a meaning”  

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 Priced at seventy pounds these bento boxes are at the top end for a takeaway. However, if you consider all the factors; exquisite ingredients, 15% of the sales to go to charity, physical workload of the highly skilled staff, and most importantly, the enormous efforts of everyone who were involved, it is very reasonable.          

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Endo san buys fish from mostly in the south of English coast.  

One fisherman lamented to him.  

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”Endo, why no one buys my fish?”   

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A couple of fishermen even didn’t know that England was in lockdown and restaurants were shut.   

They are living life far from all the heat of current events.

Endo san realised many who had fished for generations, were now facing to lose everything.  

He was determined to save them.  

It was a devastatingly hard time for him physically and mentally, but he gave his full support for them as much he could. There were many challenges in front of him and he gave his most… It was a personal effort and many tears were shed.  

Half the fishermen couldn’t keep their business.  

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Fishermen are not the only people which make restaurant Endo what it is.   

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The equally popular Miyazaki wagyu beef are supplied by an English meat merchant who managed to obtain the one of the most desired wagyu beef.  

The tailored caviar is created by craftsmen with adjusting the percentage of salt contains and marinade with konbu seaweed to Endo san’s special requirements.    

 Seasonal food does not wait. Fresh fragrant truffles were gathered and lingering to be bought.  The vegetables growing in the East Sussex were still getting harvested in the pandemic.  

His English Lamb was now almost ready after developing a new ageing process with a farmer in Cornwall.   

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His team, friends were struggling.  

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“I have been questioning myself, why I run a restaurant … ”  

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DETERMINATION

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“Both my mother and my father, the latter who died three years ago, were very strict raising me”  

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Born as the third generation of a traditional sushi restaurant in Japan means, his destiny was set at birth, to take over father’s position when grown up to become a sushi chef.  

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As like other long established houses, Endo san had to follow rigid disciplines and take many traditional art and cultural lessons, such as Chado (tea ceremony), Shodo (Japanese calligraphy ), Nihonbuyo (Japanese traditional dance performance) as well as regular visits to Kabuki performance theatre to acquire knowledge.   

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“My mother even demanded to the principal of my primary school to take some time off to do these lessons”

laughs Endo san.  

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He was allowed to attend University, which was often unusual for the children of traditional merchant houses, as they join their family business straight after high school.  

After Endo san graduated university, he had to choose, either to take his dream job or to be his father’s apprentice.  

Endo san wanted to become a sports teacher at school, an excellent sportsman he won many National university wrestling titles in his youth.   

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“But my parents were determined, and I was told if I wasn’t following the family business then I had to throw my family name and leave from the house”   

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Endo san could not leave his family, so he became a trainee sushi chef.

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After several years of hard training under his father and another famous sushi chef in Tokyo, unexpectedly he received an interest from London restaurant Zuma, a restaurant famous for its trendy Japanese food and atmosphere, for him to work as the head sushi chef.   

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He flew to London and visited several of the group’s restaurants, meeting staff dining at their branches, but his mind was still in Tokyo.   

On the last night of touring London, he was talking with a Japanese chef who works in the Zuma group, over glasses of sake drinks.  

As the night advanced, the chef finally spoke his mind.  

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“Endo san, we need you here. We need you to make our future of sushi culture of London, to build and to flourish”   

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A shock ran through Endo san’s body.  

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He had been destined in his life to become part of and to protect his family business but now, he was in the position to take big responsibility for sushi culture in London, which was building up to a new level.

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Stunned, Endo san decided to move to England.

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The next day after he went back to Japan, he told his parents about the decision.  

They simply stated,  “Well, I see”

I still can imagine, the parents’ deep and complexed feelings, their responsibilities to the previous generations, hardships, expectations and care.    

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In 2007, Endo san landed and stood at the sushi counter in London.  

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***** 

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Endo san names Rose Gray, chef and co-founder of legendary restaurant River Cafe who died in 2010, as his hero chef.   

She would visit Zuma and sat in front of the counter seat and would say “I only eat Endo’s sushi”.  

“So delicious, so delicious” she used to say with a big smile.  

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One day she invited Endo san to her restaurant.  

She showed him around in the kitchen and explained everything in detail.   

What Endo san was most attracted to her enormous love of local, local farmers, local products.  

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“Since that day, I worked at her kitchen as an apprentice on my day off, Sundays. I did it for one year” 

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Rose kept encouraging him and her words stayed in Endo san’s mind all the time.  

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“She told me I must quit working under someone after 10 years and start my own restaurant. I then must challenge for a Michelin star. She emphasized I have a duty to send out message to the world”  

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Endo san wept loudly on the stage of Michelin award in 2019.  

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“I just wanted to say thank you to Rose on that stage, but I was overwhelmed, and my words couldn’t come out…. Everyone was worried me and wondering what was happening, but I just wanted to tell Rose that I’ve got a Michelin star as she told me.”   

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Endo san has had many dramatic moments in his life as a sushi chef, but he says this pandemic made everything completely different.  

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“Everything has changed” he says.  

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“Until now I may have thought that I could rely on someone, someone will help me, or that it’ll be too impudent if I take the role… but now, I have realised I’ve got many responsibilities and I have many things I must pursue.”   

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“What is it?”

I asked.  

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“Taigi – a great cause, I think….” 

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During the lockdown, each of us confronted with a different decision on how to act, like the characters in Albert Camus’s “The Plague”.  

We then may have found unknown parts of ourselves.  

Only Endo san knows which character he is, but the certain thing is that he chose to act not just to be as a chef, but as a human.  

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“After all, people cannot live alone “  

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Even amid social distancing, he now says he wants to be even “closer” to customers.   

He wants to share more with everyone.  

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“Joy….,  beauty…..,  the land…..,  people’s work…..  and the sense of human’s touch”  

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He says he wants to take time to spend with each of us to understand and share what he admires.  

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As the hospitality business around the world is slowly reopening, I wonder what the world of food will become and where it is heading to.   

No one knows the answer yet. 

We all keep walking with our fears.  

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 Many things have been transformed within only a few weeks and we can feel that even more changes are to come.

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Will technology conquer us? 

Will the genetics of food be shifted dramatically?  

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Modern technology has been rapidly brought into our daily life.  

We did Zoom drinking, had dinner ordered via Uber Eats, some may have taken online wine tasting course or enjoyed watching top chef’s cookery sessions via streaming app.   

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As the concerns of environmental issues accelerate, the pandemic may trigger another rapid development in the technology of food itself and may even create new types of food.

We cannot stop this, and it won’t stop.

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Still, what Endo san is showing us by his acts during the pandemic is that a value of humans, the energy of mankind is irreplaceable.

Meet, talk, feel and physically communicate.

These interactions have been carried out for thousands of years as we, humans have existed.   

While some of us believe this lasts forever, this naive hope will may be dragged into a huge wave of the new era, as the violent storm of “changes” will try to swallow the hope.   

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Still though, I believe that the interaction of our flesh and our hearts are not lost on human honour, at least for now and for a while…..          

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The questions Endo san has been asking us during this lockdown.  

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The questions kept in a box which we opened up at this pandemic.  

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“What is quintessence of food?”   

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Endo san is not stopping to show it to us.   　  

He is in search of his Taigi.  　 

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©︎2020naokojeffries