Kazutoshi Endo ’s New Challenge
新たなる ENDO を読み解く [鮨職人・遠藤和年さん]
FOREWORD – 序章 –
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I believe that hope for a new year has not disappeared.
When the next year comes and we are able to visit the new Endo at Rotunda, there are a few things I’d suggest you to know.
I believe these knowledge will make your time and dishes have a deeper meaning and make it even more precious memory.
During the nine months away from the restaurant, Endo san has overcome many difficulties.
I have written a piece about his battles during the lockdown “Finding My Taigi”, so if you have time, I would be grateful if you could read it too.
After all these challenges, and just after I wrote the article, he faced another extreme difficulties, and the last week’s soft-opening day was all about coming back from the brink of death.
“They say that the heart is broken, but I was indeed broken at this time. It was like a broken branch with only a thin layer of skin, a single fiber, holding it together. I was thinking of going back to Japan”
When he spoke to me at the end of the soft opening day last week, I saw tears in the corners of his eyes.
I will leave to write about his feelings and struggles at that time for another opportunity.
In coming my posts, I would like to tell you about the present, after he has gone beyond that point, the new chapter that has begun at Endo, and his brand new sushi and food you can enjoy there.
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Vol.1 SHARI – sushi rice 舎利
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Like Endo san’s greeting at the opening, I, too, dare not go into details in this article, but during the nine months of closure, he confided that “I was completely broken at that time”.
The most important story of the new beginning that Endo san states is Shari – sushi rice.
Shari was the new start of it all.
Shari was the source of the energy that allowed him to reopen the restaurant after the difficulties he had faced, like a phoenix flapping its wings.
So what’s the difference?
And why Shari?
He says it was a box he found by chance when he was moving house.
He had forgotten that the box even existed.
When he opened it, he found a book that belonged to his father who had passed away.
This is an old book on Edomae Sushi, first published in the Meiji period.
It is a detailed description of old sushi from the same period as Endo san’s grandfather.
Many of Endo san’s father’s notes were there too.
He immediately called his mother and asked her about this.
Endo san couldn’t help but feels that this was a sign.
Sushi rice from the Edo period, more than 100 years ago.
He was surprised when he saw the recipe.
Everything was different; the way the rice was cooked, the vinegar they used…
However, there was scientific reasons and rationale behind it.
His mother told him that his grandfather used to make sushi using this Shari.
A passionate feeling welled up inside Endo san.
“I want to serve this sushi in London today.
I would like to take my dear customers to Edo-period Japan.
Past, present and future…..I want to connect the dots”
The painful feeling of being under the pandemic run through him, like a revolving lantern.
Throughout this year, I don’t think any of us have been able to stop thinking about where we come from and where we are going.
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The new Shari is completely sugar free.
The vinegar Endo san uses now is made from sake lees, aged for two months and brought from Japan.
This may bring out the sweetness and the roundness of the rice even without sugar, and is creating the perfect “Anbai” balance.
I was a little surprised when I saw the really tiny rice chest.
The shari is cooked in three portions of 400g each.
And each time, Endo san changes the mix of rice used.
Endo san showed me a small portion of the rice.
“Can you see it’s even redder than before?”
he says, smiling.
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Endo san’s Shari is used at different temperatures depending on the ingredients, and is sometimes very warm.
For example, on this day, the prawns were 36°C, at the body temperature, while the Shari was about 30°C.
And in the new course, we are receiving even more nigiri in the palm of our hands than before.
How do we feel when we receive this new Shari in the palm of our hand?
You can feel the temperature of the warm sushi rice directly in your hand.
Moreover, the nigiri is made even more delicate than when we pick it up with our fingers.
After finishing all 20 plus courses, you realise that your memory of Shari is remarkably faint.
In other words, there is no sense of the rice’s insistence or imposition.
This is the absolute core essence of sushi rice.
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“The temperature in London today is very close to the temperature in Japan in the Edo period,”
said Endo san, delighted at the unexpected coincidence.
I felt I could see the little lights glowing warmly inside him.
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Vol.２ NIGIRI 握り
“ The Shari has now changed, so the preparation of the Neta has all changed. It’s completely, totally different”
When the staff at the restaurant were first told about the change, they were quite perplexed: “Chef, are we going that far?”
In the summer, during the lockdown, Endo san told me already that “The next time we reopen, I won’t do it normally”
At that time, I think it was June, just to reopen the restaurant and get back to normal business was very difficult. It was normal for anyone to not even have the energy to think about making it better than before. But Endo san had no such thoughts in his mind. He wants to give something reaching to the customers’ heart who are waiting for him and come back to eat. He wants to deepen the meanings of the human connection he felt at the lockdown. So, Endo san decided to reduce the number of seats from 10 to 8. This is because he wants to be able to face each person more individually. If you’ve ever been to the restaurant or seen a picture of it, you’ll know that the number of seats is completely unthinkable in a place like London, with that space, that décor and that first class staff.
“I don’t think it’s enough to serve sushi that you would say you’ve eaten somewhere before”
The sushi and nigiri he served were exactly what he promised.
Each piece was strewn with intensity, emotional power and powerful impressions.
They were utterly magnificent.
On this day, out of the 20 dishes in the course, there were 12 pieces of sushi and nigiri.
For the new course for this time of the reopening, Endo san states his philosophy is not common “Ichigo Ichie” – to treat every meeting is like once in a lifetime, but “Ichiza Konryu” – to stand as one unit.
On that night, at that moment, it was still my Ichigo Ichie, and the encounter and the taste were ephemerally disappeared in my mouth, but they are keenly and deeply etched in the memory of my mind.
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TORO
On this day, we were served the Otoro and Chutoro, the part next to Kama, from the Spanish Balearic Sea, not the North Atlantic but the Mediterranean.
(In the video, he says that tomorrow it will be lockdown again, so only the best of the best parts will be served)
The fish is aged for 8 days. This Neta was carefully aged to bring out its deep flavour and umami, but “not too much”, he says. He doesn’t overdo it, because if he does, the fat becomes like vegetable oil and the flavour is lost.
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SCALLOPS
The most sensational nigiri of the night for me was the scallops. Endo san’s philosophy is “Not buy this fish, but buy from this person”. The diver who brought us this scallops dives deeper than anyone else. “They are alive” says Endo san. The scallops tasted like a beauty out-of-this world. Ultimately pure, bursting with rare elements of the deep water. It was like a pearl that they seem to concentrate only the beautiful, purity of the sea. Unbelievable flavour. And the actual scallops magically disapper from your mouth in a moment. I was left with the feeling of a pounding heart…… There, on top, is the British caviar of Kobujime and containing no salt, which Endo san took two years to create.
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MACKEREL
I was also impressed by the cleanness and delicate aroma of the mackerel. Endo san buys his mackerel from a fisherman he put his trusts in full. Even though the fish come from the same sea and area, the difference is obvious when you eat it. It is the beautiful sushi, with the spirit of the fishermen and a certain tenderness that is palpable on the tongue.
OYSTER
This oyster are made with the same technique as Nihama, the Edomae work called “Tsukekomi” that is also often used for Hamaguri clams. Very traditional method, cooked in soy, sake and other ingredients, but Endo san’s one is extremely softly done. In your mouth, this nigiri, slowly and roundly, delivers an indescribable nostalgic flavour that brings you back to the memories of your past in an instant.
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SEA BASS
This is the superb sea bass sushi. Never come crossed before such a rich and powerful sea bass. Four days ageing, a piece of three slices. The umami created by the ageing is remarkably intense that fills the mouth with a lingering pleasure.
OTHERS
In addition to the above, the popular salmon is fragrant with Yamadanishiki smoked rice straw.. The eel is this time charcoal grilled with Binchotan. The signature “business card” is still in place. Other highlights include Kobujime squid from Cornwall and Scottish langoustines with aged caviar …. All of these are excellent and moving.
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Vol.3 ORYORI dishes お料理
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Sushi is not the only thing that has evolved at the new Endo.
Perhaps it is the Oryori – dishes that have clearly improved the most.
The Dashi, the core of Japanese cuisine, was made in front of us, from shaving dried bonito flakes, just in time for the Wan dish to be served.
The aroma and flavour was rising up and the warm, freshly prepared prime Dashi sooth my body and calm my mind.
“At the beginning of the meal, I serve Dashi dish as if to purify the body and soul”
This day’s Wan was with crab Shinjo, which is the delight of the season.
What’s more, you can’t help but notice the changes: the Tempura.
Fragrant Matsutake mushrooms from Japan. Lobster from Brigham, Devon. The monkfish is covered in Bekko an sauce made with dark soy and thicken with Kuzu. And these tempura are served at different times, interspersed between the courses.
The batter is lighter than before, allowing the flavours of the ingredients to shine through. Endo’s attention to detail is also evident in the different sauces that accompany each dish.
Each of these dishes appears interspersed between the nigiri, and they are as like from the well-honed fast, straight ball to the screwball, Endo throws them with skill.
It’s a completely different experience from the usual sushi counter.
This is what makes restaurant Endo a unique experience, it stands out as the only one of its kind.
Imagine being so overwhelmed by the power of sushi, which Endo san put his soul in every “throw”, that you let your mind wander for a moment, while a dazzling array of superstar dishes makes its appearance.
Be prepared for a serious match with Endo san , the one to stimulate the brain, delight the tongue and shake the heart.
The most memorable Oryori for me was the yellow tail Shabu-Shabu. The yellow tail is lightly glazed with Yoshino kuzu before being parboiled for a second, giving it a plump texture and sealing in the flavours.
The dipping Tsuyu sauce is as rich as the supreme quality yellow tail which almost too good to cook. You will see Endo san’s meticulous work in it.
For the Yakimono grill dish, we first had Kuwa-Yaki quail. After a couple of pieces of toro nigiri, we had a powerful dish called “seared” Otoro, which was almost as like steak. And then there is the Miyazaki Wagyu beef, very delicately cooked. This beef was served so unobtrusively at the end of the course, but I could write a whole post on this dish alone. It was a real burst of energy from Endo san, with no corners cut. The dish was accompanied by British Shogoin turnip and beetroot, cooked in a Shio Gama. The vegetables are covered all over with salt, placed in a ceramic container and cooked slowly in the oven. The pots were specially ordered just for this dish.
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Vol. 4 KEKKAI 結界
To enjoy restaurant Endo, it is enough to just sit there and leave yourself in the hands of Endo san.
Still, knowing a little bit about the chef’s thoughts would make your precious time at this place even richer, so I decided to write this series after the reopening.
What I wanted to tell you the most in this series is KEKKAI – the boundary.
This word, which is difficult to understand immediately on hearing, appears at the beginning of Endo’s dinner. This is why I felt compelled to tell you and write this article.
KEKKAI is originally a Buddhist term, which is often heard perhaps during a tea ceremony.
It is said to have originated when monks separated the sacred area from the secular area in order to practice asceticism.
In other words, it is a boundary line that separates the inside from the outside, the sacred from the profane, but we can also see certain kinds of wards in our daily lives, not only in temples and shrines.
For example, Noren- the curtain of a shop, or placing the chopsticks in a line for a meal are also considered to be a kind of boundary.
However, it’s not that Endo san considers his restaurant a sanctuary. It’s just that he wants us to be free from the troubles and worries of everyday life, at least when we dine at Endo, and to enjoy a moment of pleasure. That’s why the first drink is called “KEKKAI”. After this drink, you will feel calm and happy.
In other words, I think, Endo is expressing his determination to do his utmost to make this happen.
The new course is divided into five chapters, the first of which is “Reunion” , where you will be served Kekkai drink based on Hojicha tea, with a slight twist.
I won’t go in details not to spoil it for you.
When the course is over, we sit at the bar and are served a blend of three different teas. Again, the same Houjicha is used in the greatest proportions. I felt the beginning and the end coming full circle.
BINCHOTAN
Now, Endo san is cooking with Binchotan charcoal from Wakayama. There are a number of techniques in Japanese cuisine that are known as ” Shokunin Waza – artisanal”, and this technique of using Bonchotan is certainly one of them. It is very difficult to handle, but when it is mastered, it has a tremendous power to bring out the true value of ingredients that you may have never been encountered before. You can get a taste of it at Endo.
SAKE
Natsuki Kikutani who is in charge with Sake and Wine menu at Endo has uppedated her selection of Sake. She sources some of the hardest to find brands in Japan for the restaurant. Her sake connoisseurship is first class, and if you follow her advice, you’ll meet a refined and exceptional Sake. On this night, I had ARAMASA Ecru. Elegant in aroma and texture, the taste is floral and dynamic. It was the perfect Sake to celebrate Endo’s new start. Natsuki san’s philosophy is “whether the sake tells a story”.
BAR
At the Endo bar, they are now serving cocktails to go with the sushi…. This is a completely new world for me and I hope to learn more from the bartender, Jun Ichikawa. This is an unprecedented initiative. It’s very exciting.
THE STAFF
Although Endo san has a strong impact, it is the staff that make the difference. The first time I saw Endo san at an event, my eyes were glued to the movements of the apprentice standing next to him. The synchronised flow of his movements, the way he never misses a breath. The fact that he has such a staff shows how excellent he is.
“ When Britain went into full lockdown, I decided that I would not let anyone go “
Endo san told me.
The staff are wonderful, not only in their skills but also in their hearts. At the restaurant, I hope you will also relish the competence of all these staff members.
SUMI
SUMI is a new casual restaurant opened by Endo san in December. It’s named after his mother. Perhaps it is this connection that you feel like a warm welcome when you step into the calm light of the restaurant. The head Sushi chef is Akinori Yasuda san and the head cuisine chef is David Bury, who both have inherited much of Endo san’s spirit. It will be interesting to see what the future holds for this lively restaurant. www.sushisumi.com
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I have written about new Endo at Rotunda in five chapters including the foreword.
I’d like to thank you all for letting me write this long texts, and for reading this far.
The world of Endo at Rotunda is One and Only…
I hope that you have enjoyed the stories, the picture and the film images.
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Please do check lively actions with some films that are up on my Instagram.
www.instagram.com/the.japan.set_naoko/
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I can only hope that we can return to eating in restaurants soon.
I am also wishing all the producers and suppliers the best of luck in continuing to provide the same excellent food under the new post-Brexit regulations.
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Thank you from the bottom of my hearts to everyone who gave me the wonderful opportunity and the kind support for me.
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December 2020
Naoko
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